Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [341]
After a rest in the fetching town of Chacas, you can continue on to do the one- to two-day Chacas to Yanama trek. This is the shortest of the three hikes and has the lowest pass of the lot, at a ‘mere’ 4050m. From Chacas you hike through the municipalities of Sapcha and Potaca and can either finish the trek at Yanama or continue to the Keshu valley, which has several good places to camp. Colcabamba, a few hours further on from Yanama, is the end of the Santa Cruz trek and endurance hikers can tag this trek onto the end of their Herculean circuit before returning to Huaraz.
Incaroca Travel (Click here) in Huaraz has lots of experience with these treks and offers community-tourism options along the way. Ask for César Roca.
HONDA–ULTA (SIX TO SEVEN DAYS)
This loop starting at Vicos and ending at the village of Shilla, near Carhuaz, is a moderate trek, with the exception of a couple of difficult high-altitude passes at Laguna Yanayacu (4850m) and Portachuelo Honda (4750m). Along the way, parties can stop into the tiny community of Juitush and the impossibly precious village of Chacas (Click here) and linger on views of Yanaragra (5987m), Pucaranra (6156m), Palcaraju (6274m) and two remote lakes. This is a great hike if you want to experience a route done much less frequently than most and enjoy a few charismatic indigenous villages along the way.
LOS CEDROS–ALPAMAYO (SEVEN DAYS)
This is one of the more dazzling and demanding treks of the Cordillera. The 90km route involves very long ascents to high passes, incredible alpine scenery (including the regal north side of Nevado Alpamayo) and traditional Quechua communities with no road access. Starting in Cashapampa (same as the Santa Cruz trek) or Hualcayan and ending in Pomabamba, it is only recommended for experienced and acclimatized hikers who are familiar with navigation. The route is relatively straightforward, but not signposted. You can treat yourself to well-earned dips in hot mineral spring baths at both ends of this trek.
CORDILLERA HUAYHUASH
Often playing second fiddle to its limelight-stealing cousin, the Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash hosts an equally impressive medley of glaciers, summits and lakes – all packed into a hardy area only 30km across. Increasing numbers of travelers are discovering this rugged and remote territory, where trails skirt around the outer edges of this stirring, peaked range. Several strenuous high-altitude passes of over 4500m throw down a gauntlet to the hardiest of trekkers. The feeling of utter wilderness, particularly along the unspoiled eastern edge, is the big draw and you are more likely to spot the graceful Andean condor here than dozens of burro-toting trekking groups.
In the waning moments of 2001, Peru’s Ministry of Agriculture declared the Cordillera Huayhuash a ‘reserved zone,’ giving a transitory measure of protection to nearly 700 sq km of almost-pristine land. Since then, the ministry has backed away from official support as a unique, private and community-managed conservation effort has taken root. The six communities whose traditional territory lies at the heart of the Huayhuash range are becoming formally recognized as ‘Private Conservation Areas.’ Several districts along the circuit now charge user fees of S10 to S12, with costs for the entire circuit approaching S50. Part of the fees goes to improved security for hikers and part goes to continued conservation work – support this grassroots preservation attempt by paying your fees, carrying enough small change and by always asking for an official receipt.
Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit
Circling a tight cluster of high peaks, including Yerupajá (6634m), the world’s second-highest tropical mountain, this stunning trek crosses multiple high-altitude passes with spine-tingling views. The dramatic lakes along the eastern flanks provide great campsites (and are good for trout fishing) and give hikers a wide choice of routes to make this trek as difficult as they choose to make it.