Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [344]
Hostal El Nogal (42-5929; s/d S32/64) The slightly dank rooms at Hostal El Nogal find redemption in its attractive, wood-lined building and flourishing rear garden.
Real Hotel Baños Termales Monterrey (42-7690; s/d S63/78, 2-/4-person bungalows S108/160; ) Crowning the hill like a thermal-bath overlord, you can hear the history of this grand old structure through its creaky wooden floors. Old-world charm oozes from every crack in the wall. It is set in a motley garden, there’s a simple restaurant with outdoor dining (overlooking the pool) and reasonably priced meals. Rather Spartan rooms have hot showers and a TV that shows local channels. The four bungalows sleep either two or four. Rates include access to the springs.
El Patio de Monterrey (42-4965; elpatio@terra.com.pe; s/d S145/180) The fanciest venture around, this has colonial-style architecture around a toothsome hacienda, complemented by the colonial-style furniture. Most of the ship-shape rooms are spacious and have bathtubs, phones and local TV. Some rooms (S330) sleep up to four and a few have a fireplace. Most rooms look out onto a bountiful garden that’s strewn with wagon wheels and fountains; some have a balcony. Meals are available in the fireplace-heated restaurant-bar.
El Regimontano (meals S3-6; 8am-7pm) Opposite the baths, this place is guarded by mannequins dressed in traditional mountain garb and opens into a secret garden. Local specialties – including cuy (guinea pig), chicharrónes (pork crackling) and trout – are the norm and the large benches, protected from the elements by thatch roofs, are popular with groups.
Recreo Mochica (42-9074; Km 2.5; mains S3-15; 8am-8pm) This is a small but locally popular place serving roast chicken and trout.
Recreo Buongiorno (42-7145; Km 2.5; meals S9-18; 11am-8pm) You can’t miss the rock model of the Cordillera Blanca outside this joint. Local and national food is served, as well as yummy pastries. Outside is a nice garden with a play set for children that attracts families.
El Ollón de Barro (42-3364; Km 7; meals S9-27; 10am-7pm) This is surrounded by a near-impenetrable wall of hedge guarding a large, enticing garden with a fronton court, children’s swings and trees. Typical plates such as rocoto relleno (spicy hot pepper stuffed with rice and pepper) and ají de gallina (chicken stewed with walnuts and chilis) are on offer, as well as the usual country grills.
El Cortijo (42-3813; mains S18-30; 10am-7pm) An excellent grill chars ostrich alongside cuy and other meats, as well as serving ‘ordinary’ food. Outdoor tables are arranged around a fountain (complete with little boy peeing) in a grassy flower-filled garden, with swings for children.
Getting There & Away
Local buses from Huaraz go north along Luzuriaga, west on Calle 28 de Julio, north on Calle 27 de Novembre, east on Raimondi and north on Fitzcarrald. Try to catch a bus early in the route, as they soon fill up. The fare for the 15-minute ride is S1. A taxi ride between Huaraz and Monterrey costs about S5.
MONTERREY TO CARHUAZ
About 5km north of Monterrey, the road goes through the little village of Taricá (population 1500) which earns its tourist stripes with locally made pottery. Stop at the friendly Hostal Sterling (49-1277, 49-0299; s/d S20/35), which has funky, concrete-block rooms with electric showers, a small restaurant and a bar that looks like it’s barely been touched since the 1950s – the dust is piled high. Behind the hotel is an elevation called Aparac, which is used for hang-gliding.
About 18km north of Monterrey is minuscule Anta airport and 2km beyond is the hamlet of Marcará (population 1275). From here, minibuses and trucks leave regularly for the hot springs and natural saunas of Chancos, 4km to the east, where the waters supposedly