Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [349]
For detailed trekking information you can visit one of the two main trekking outfits in Caraz. Alberto Cafferata at Pony Expeditions (/fax 39-1642; www.ponyexpeditions.com; José Sucre 1266; 8am-10pm Mon-Sat) speaks English, French and Spanish and provides equipment rental (including bicycles), transport, guides, arrieros and various excursions. Books, maps, fuel and other items are for sale at the shop. You can also visit Luis at Apu Aventura (96832740; www.apuaventura.com), based at Albergue Los Pinos (see opposite). Luis is an experienced guide who can also help arrange treks, horse riding, climbing and equipment rental.
Sleeping
Caraz has yet to see the tourist development of Huaraz and offers straightforward facilities and budget sleeping options. Prices remain quite stable throughout the year.
Hostal La Casona (39-1334; Raimondi 319; s/d S15/28, s/d without bathroom S10/15) Although many of the large rooms here are dark and windowless, the attractive patio still makes this place a budget fave.
Albergue Los Pinos (39-1130; Parque San Martín 103; campsites per person S10; s/d S45/65, s/d without bathroom S20/35; ) This popular, HI-affiliated place offers outstanding rooms in a massive, multicolored mansion that is thoughtfully decorated inside and out. There are several great garden courtyards and a funky restaurant that serves breakfast and snacks. The owner, Luis, organizes trekking and tours of the area.
Hotel San Marco (39-1558; San Martín 1133; s/d S25/35, s/d without bathroom S10/15) You wouldn’t think that exposed concrete could look inviting, yet somehow this place manages to exude a certain bucolic appeal. This large, rambling brick building has modest rooms that are kept reasonably clean by the friendly owners.
Alojamiento Caballero (39-1637; Villar 485; s/d S15/30) It’s a small, simple, clean, friendly, family-run place with views and shared hot showers.
Cordillera Blanca Hotel (39-1435; Grau 903; s/d S25/35) This multistory hotel opposite the market is decidedly lacking in anything that might resemble character, but the immaculate pink rooms and gleaming bathrooms are without fault and good value for money. The restaurant downstairs, Chifa El Dragón Rojo, offers a Chinese twist on the traditional pollería.
Grand Hostal Caraz Dulzura (39-1523; www.huaraz.com/carazdulzura; Sáenz Peña 212; s/d S25/35) About 10 blocks north of town along San Martín, this is a clinically clean and modern rural retreat that provides good bang for your buck. Rooms are bright and have hot showers and comfortable beds. There’s a patio backed by a rocky hill and covered in lots of greenery, a TV room, book exchange and restaurant for doing breakfast (S6) and dinner (mains S8 to S12).
Hostal Chavín (39-1171; hostalchavin@latinmail.com; San Martín 1135; s/d S30/40) The friendly owner, who is involved with the local tourism authority, knows the area and provides information, tours and local transportation. Rooms are simple, but all have TV and hot showers.
Hostal La Alameda (39-1177; www.hotellaalameda.com; Bazán Peralta 262; s/d S40-65, s without bathroom S30-60) Lots of places to sit and relax adorn the flourishing garden here, and although the cheaper rooms are a little cell-like, the better rooms are relatively good value. The ladies running this show are ridiculously friendly. Hot showers and breakfasts are available here.
La Perla de Los Andes (/fax 39-2007; Plaza de Armas 179; s/d S35/55) A swish place that wears its multiple layers of polished wood with pride, La Perla has a great location right on Caraz’ quiet plaza. Although rooms are a mite small, they all have cable TV, solid mattresses, hot showers and some have balconies with an ideal plaza view. A restaurant serves breakfast and the staff is helpful.
Hostal Chamanna (9691645; Nueva Victoria 185; r with/without bathroom per person S45/30) It’s less than 2km from the center on the road to Cashapampa (ask locals for