Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [351]
The rugged and rewarding 10-day Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit (Click here), accessed through the town of Chiquián, is the glittering star attraction. This fairly strenuous hike is less accessible and receives fewer visitors than its Cordillera Blanca counterpart, but rewards those who make the effort with stunning and remote azure lakes, snow-covered peaks and green-carpeted valleys.
The Puente Bedoya bridge, about 18km south of Huaraz, marks the beginning of a 2km dirt road to the community of Olleros, the starting point for the three-day trek across the Cordillera Blanca to Chavín de Huántar (Click here). Respons Sustainable Tourism Center (Click here) in Huaraz arranges a colorful day trip (S90 for two people, less per person for larger groups) to the village of Huarípampa, just a few minutes south of Huaraz, to see two local women dye and weave wool with plants from their own gardens and on their own hand looms.
Recuay (population 2900), a town 25km from Huaraz, is one of the few municipalities to have survived the 1970 earthquake largely unscathed. Catac (population 2300), 10km south of Recuay, is an even smaller hamlet and the starting point for trips to see the remarkable Puya raimondii plant.
Further south, about 70km from Huaraz on the road to Lima and in the vicinity of the village of Pampas Chico, Hatun Machay (www.andeankingdom.com/hatunmachay; dm incl all meals, equipment & transport from Huaraz S150) is a rock-climber’s paradise. The folks at Andean Kingdom have developed dozens of climbing routes throughout this ‘rock forest’ nestled high in the Cordillera Negra. The whole complex, including the climbing routes and a large rustic refuge with kitchen facilities is at your service for beginning rock-climbing instruction, as well as hard-core ascents. If that weren’t enough, two treks around the area take you past archaeological remains of rock carvings and a view of the Pacific Ocean (on a clear day), and make for great half-day acclimatization hikes.
CHIQUIÁN
043 / pop 3700 / elev 3400m
A subdued hill town, Chiquián was traditionally the base of operations for folk trekking the Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit. Now, however, it can be bypassed using the new road that extends to a trailhead at Llamac. Great views of the Huayhuash come into view as you drive into the village.
Trekking services can be arranged through a couple of small agencies in town. Andes Top, based at Hotel Los Nogales, arranges trekking and climbing excursions departing from Chiquián. Daily rates are roughly the same as in Huaraz.
The annual festival in Chiquián is in honor of Santa Rosa de Lima, held in late August and celebrated with dances, parades, music and bullfights. Club Esperanza (44-7161; Comercio 310) sells good-quality alpaca products handknitted by local artisans.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Los Nogales (44-7121; Comercio 1301; s/d S20/35, without bathroom S10/15) Clean and attractive, this place is about three blocks from the central plaza. Rooms surround a comely, colonial-style courtyard and meals are available on request. There is hot water.
Hostal Chavín (San Martín, cuadra 1; d S15) An adequate pick for shoestring travelers trying to squeeze value out of their nuevo soles.
Gran Hotel Huayhuash (42-5661; www.hotelhuayhuash.com; Calle 28 de Julio 400; s/d S45/60) Some rooms at this more contemporary place have cable TV and afford good vistas; hot water is available and the hotel has the town’s best restaurant. The hotel owner here is a good source of information.
Chifa Huaycayinita (58-8604; Sáenz Peña; meals S5-10; noon-4pm & 7-10pm) A decent hole-in-the-wall