Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [355]
As a major ceremonial center, the most powerful players in Chavín were its priests, who reigned with terrifying authority over castes of artisans and ordinary workers. The priests relied on sophisticated observation and understanding of seasonal changes, rain and drought cycles, and the movement of the sun, moon, and stars to create calendars that helped the Chavín reign as agriculturalists. Some archaeologists have argued that women also served as priests and played a powerful role in Chavín culture.
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Cafetería Renato (50-4279; Plaza de Armas; breakfast & snacks S7-14; 7am-4pm) On the casual Plaza de Armas, this cozy place serves yummy local and international breakfasts alongside homemade yogurt, cheese and manjar blanco (homemade caramel spread). There’s a lovely garden you can laze in while waiting for your bus and the owners organize horse trekking from here.
Chavín Turístico (45-4051; Calle 17 de Enero 439; meals S7-15; 11am-9pm) A good lunch option, this place has a chalkboard of traditional plates and rickety tables around a tiny courtyard. The food is tasty and popular with tour groups.
Buongiorno (45-4112; Calle 17 de Enero 439; meals S10-15; 10am-9pm) Probably the best restaurant in town, Buongiorno serves well-executed local dishes and a few gringo regulars in a cordial garden backdrop. The lomo a la pimienta, a Peruvian fave of grilled steak in wine, cream and cracked-pepper sauce (S13), is excellent. Keep an eye out for the unnatural-looking stuffed deer guarding the entrance.
Getting There & Away
The scenic drive across the Cordillera Blanca via Catac passes the Laguna Querococha at 3980m. From here, there are views of the peaks of Pucaraju (5322m) and Yanamarey (5237m). Along the way it passes through the Kahuish tunnel, at 4516m above sea level, which cuts through the Kahuish pass. As you exit the tunnel and descend toward Chavín, look out for the massive statue of Christ, built by Italian missionaries (Click here), blessing your journey.
Tour buses make day trips from Huaraz. Click here for details of Chavín Express and other companies that have multiple daily departures to Chavín (S10, three hours). Either Chavín Express or Sandoval leave from the Plaza de Armas for the return trip to Huaraz – ask about departure times at the Plaza de Armas – but seats are limited and you may be forced to take a colectivo (S20, two hours).
Continuing north along the east side of the Cordillera Blanca involves asking around. Most of the buses originating in Huaraz continue on to Huari (S5, two hours), from where you can catch onward transport on some of the infrequent buses that pass through from Lima. Frequent minibuses to San Marcos depart from the plaza (S1, 20 minutes).
Hikers can walk to Chavín from Olleros in about three days; it’s a popular but un-crowded hike (Click here).
NORTH OF CHAVÍN
The road north of Chavín goes through the villages of San Marcos (after 8km), Huari (40km, two hours), San Luis (100km, five hours), Pomabamba and eventually Sihuas (population 4000). The further north you go, the more inconsistent transport becomes, and it may stop altogether during the wet season.
From Sihuas, it is possible to continue on to Huallanca (at the end of Cañón del Pato) via Tres Cruces and thus return to the Callejón de Huaylas (see Do-It-Yourself Andean Exploration, Click here). This round-trip is scenic, remote and rarely made by travelers.
There are two roads that offer picturesque crossings back to El Callejón de Huaylas. The road from Chacas to Carhuaz, via the Punta Olímpica pass (4890m), is spectacular. A road from Yanama to Yungay takes passengers over yet another breathtaking pass (4767m) and into the valley made famous by the Llanganuco lakes, with top views of the towering Huascarán, Chopicalqui and Huandoy (6356m).
Huari
043 / pop 4700 / elev 3150m
A small Quechua town barely clinging to the mountainside, Huari has nearly 360-degree mountain panoramas from its steep, cobbled streets. Market day here is Sunday, when campesinos from surrounding