Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [360]
Atahualpa, suspecting he was not going to be released, sent desperate messages to his followers in Quito to come to Cajamarca and rescue him. The Spaniards, panic-stricken by these messages, sentenced Atahualpa to death. On July 26, 1533, Atahualpa was led out to the center of the Cajamarca plaza to be burned at the stake. At the last hour, Atahualpa ‘accepted’ baptism and, as a reward, his sentence was changed to a quicker death by strangulation.
Most of the great stone Inca buildings in Cajamarca were torn down and the stones used in the construction of Spanish homes and churches. The great plaza where Atahualpa was captured and later killed was in roughly the same location as today’s Plaza de Armas, though in Atahualpa’s time it was much larger. The Ransom Chamber, or El Cuarto del Rescate, where Atahualpa was imprisoned, is the only Inca building still standing.
Information
Money changers linger on the Plaza de Armas; take the usual precautions (Click here). There’s internet access practically on every block.
Casa de Cambio (Jirón del Batán) Changes US dollars quickly.
Clínica Limatambo (36-4241; Puno 265; 8am-5pm) Has the best medical service; west of town.
Dirección de Turismo (36-2903; El Complejo de Belén; 7:30am-1pm & 2:30-5pm Mon-Fri) Tourist information and local map for sale (S1).
Interbank (36-2460; Calle 2 de Mayo 546) Changes traveler’s checks and has an ATM accepting Visa and MasterCard.
Laundry Dandy (36-3454; Puga 545; per kg S5)
M@xNet (36-5385; Jirón del Batán 177; 8am-midnight) Internet access.
Police (36-2165; cnr Puga & Ayacucho) Toward the eastern part of town.
Post office (36-4065; Puga 668; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Behind the Iglesia de San Francisco.
Scotiabank (Amazonas 750) Changes traveler’s checks and has an ATM accepting Visa and MasterCard. Another outlet is located at El Quinde Shopping Center (Click here).
Sights
All the following sights are officially open 9am to 1pm and 3pm to 6pm daily – most of the time. They don’t have addresses but are in the center of town. The S5 ticket to El Cuarto del Rescate includes El Complejo de Belén and Museo de Etnografía if they are all visited on the same day.
EL COMPLEJO DE BELÉN
Construction of this sprawling colonial complex, church and hospital of Belén, made entirely from volcanic rock, occurred between 1627 and 1774. The hospital was run by nuns and 31 tiny, cell-like bedrooms line the walls of the T-shaped building. In what used to be the women’s hospital is a small archaeology museum. The facade here has a fascinating statue of a woman with four breasts – it was carved by local artisans and supposedly represents an affliction (supernumerary nipples, that is) commonly found in one of the nearby towns. The kitchen and dispensary of the hospital now houses an unimpressive art museum.
The baroque church next door is one of Cajamarca’s finest and has a prominent cupola and a well-carved pulpit. Among several interesting wood carvings, one extremely tired-looking Christ sits cross-legged on his throne, propping up his chin with a double–jointed wrist and looking as though he could do with a pisco sour after a hard day’s miracle working. Look out for the oversized cherubs supporting the elaborate centerpiece, which represents the weight of heaven. The outside walls of the church are lavishly decorated. The tourist office is housed in one of the interior complex rooms.
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THERE’S GOLD IN THEM THERE HILLS
The hills outside Cajamarca are laced with gold. Tons of it – but don’t reach for your shovel and pan just yet, as this gold is not found in the kind of golden nuggets that set prospectors’ eyes ablaze. It’s ‘invisible gold,’ vast quantities of minuscule specks that require advanced and noxious mining techniques to be pried out of its earthly ore.