Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [362]
Two churches face the Plaza de Armas: the cathedral (admission free; hours vary) and the Iglesia de San Francisco (admission S3; 9am-noon & 4-6pm Mon-Fri). Both are often imaginatively illuminated in the evenings, especially on weekends. The cathedral is a squat building that was begun in the late 17th century and only recently finished. Like most of Cajamarca’s churches, this cathedral has no belfry. This is because the Spanish Crown levied a tax on finished churches and so the belfries were not built, leaving the church unfinished and thereby avoiding the tax.
Iglesia de San Francisco’s belfries were finished in the 20th century – too late for the Spanish Crown to collect its tax. Inside are elaborate stone carvings and decadent altars, and at the entrance is an interesting collection of dangling silver sacred hearts. Visit the church’s small Museo de Arte Religioso (Religious Art Museum) to see 17th-century religious paintings done by indigenous artists and the creepy catacombs, where many monks lie buried. The intricately sculpted Capilla de la Dolorosa to the right of the nave is considered one of the finest chapels in the city.
CERRO SANTA APOLONIA
This garden-covered viewpoint (admission S1; 9am-1pm & 3-5pm) overlooks the city from the southwest and is a prominent Cajamarca landmark. It is easily reached by climbing the stairs at the end of Calle 2 de Mayo, and walking paths spiral around the whole hilltop, making this a nice spot to take a stroll. The pre-Hispanic carved rocks at the summit are mainly from the Inca period, but some are thought to originally date back to the Chavín period. One of the rocks, which is known as the Seat of the Inca, has a shape that suggests a throne, and the Inca (king) is said to have reviewed his troops from this point.
Activities
Hogar de Cristo (36-5778; Belén 676; 8am-6pm) is a charity that is always looking for volunteers to help with its various programs for street children.
Tours & Guides
Tour companies provide information and inexpensive guided tours of the city and its surroundings. The companies claim to have English-speaking guides, but only a few really pass muster. Tours to Cumbe Mayo (S15), Baños del Inca (S20), Granja Porcón (S20) and Ventanillas de Otuzco (S20) are the most popular. The companies will often pool tours. The following companies have received recommendations:
Cajamarca Tours (36-5674; Calle 2 de Mayo 311)
Clarín Tours (36-6829; clarintours@hotmail.com; Jirón del Batán 161)
Mega Tours (35-7793; jpilcon@yahoo.es; Puga 691)
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CARNAVAL CAJAMARCA
The Peru-wide pageantry of Carnaval is celebrated at the beginning of Lent, usually in February. Not all Carnavals are created equal, however. Ask any Peruvian where the wildest celebrations are at, and Cajamarca will invariably come out trumps.
Preparations begin months in advance; sometimes, no sooner have Carnaval celebrations wound down than planning for the following year begins. Cajamarcans take their celebrations seriously. The festival is nine days of dancing, eating, singing, partying, costumes, parades and general rowdy mayhem. It’s also a particularly wet affair and water fights here are worse (or better, depending on your point of view) than you’d encounter elsewhere. Local teenagers don’t necessarily limit themselves to soaking one another with water – paint, oil and other unsightly liquids have all been reported.
Hotels fill up weeks beforehand, prices skyrocket and hundreds of people end up sleeping in the plaza. Considering it’s one of the most rambunctious festivals in Peru, it certainly seems worth it.
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Festivals & Events
Carnaval The Carnaval festivities here are reputed to be one of the most popular and rowdy events in the country (Click here). It’s held in the last few days before Lent.
Corpus Christi A popular feast day in Cajamarca; it’s held on the ninth Thursday after Easter.
Fiestas Patrias Celebrations marking National Independence Days (July 28 and 29) may include a bullfight.
Sleeping
Hotel rates (and other prices) rise