Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [365]
Hostal Laguna Seca (59-4600; www.lagunaseca.com.pe; s/d S288/354; ) Situated 6km from Cajamarca near Los Baños del Inca, this Swiss-owned resort runs, not surprisingly, like clockwork. It features a huge, heated swimming pool, Jacuzzi and Turkish bath and the hot water in all rooms is fed by the natural thermal springs nearby. Rooms have large bathrooms with deep tubs for soaking, direct-dial phones, cable TVs, mini-fridges and radios. Horseback riding (S30 per hour) and bicycle rental (S8 per hour) are available and massages and spa health treatments pamper the hedonists among you. There’s also a pleasant garden with children’s playground and a decent restaurant. Call ahead for free transfers from Cajamarca’s airport.
Eating
Heladería Holanda (34-0113; Puga 657; ice creams S3; 9am-7pm) Don’t miss the tiny entrance on the town’s Plaza de Armas; it opens into a large, bright cafe selling what might be the best ice cream in northern Peru. The cafe has about 20 changing flavors, including Italian classics like stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate chips) and others made with local and seasonal fruit. Excellent espressos, cappuccinos with giant foam and homemade pies round out the menu.
New York Pizza (50-6215; Puga 1045; pizzas S3-9; 4-11pm) OK, it’s not real New York pizza, but then again nothing else is. They still make a great pie though, as the yummy smells wafting down the street will verify. They get double bonus points for their delivery service.
Cascanuez Café Bar (36-6089; Puga 554; desserts S3-10; 7am-11pm) This cafe sells snacks and meals but people flock here for the good choice of fine desserts and respectable coffee.
Don Paco (36-2655; Puga 726; meals S8-20; 8:30am-11pm) Tucked away near the plaza, Don Paco has a big following among both residents and expats. There’s something for everyone here, including typical breakfasts and great renditions of Peruvian favorites, as well as a whole bunch of veggie options. The lentil burgers and quinoa (an Andean grain) salad are particularly good.
Sanguchon.com (Junín 1137; mains from S9; 6pm-late) This popular hamburger and sandwich joint with an excellent bar often remains rowdy till the wee hours.
Salas (36-2867; Puga 637; mains S10-20; 7am-10pm) This barn of a restaurant on the Plaza de Armas has been a local favorite since 1947 – and some of the diners look like they have been patronizing the joint since the very beginning. Knowledgeable elderly staff in white suits will help you navigate the extensive menu, which lists local specialties such as goat, tamales (corn dough stuffed with meat, beans or chilis) and even sesos (cow brains). More-standard plates are also available.
Nuevo Chifa Canton (34-4517; Puga 519; mains from S12; noon-4pm & 6-11pm) A step up from the usual Chinese restaurants that abound in Peru, the menu here is filled with hundreds of options great for everyone, from vegetarians to the most daring meat eaters. The chef hails from Canton and boasts more than 15 years of cooking experience.
Querubino (34-0900; Puga 589; mains S12-18; noon-midnight) Modern and stylish, warm and busy, and generally full of tourist groups, this place has a ponderous menu of Peruvian and international dishes and is renowned for its great pastas. It also has a solid wine selection.
El Batán (36-6025; Jirón del Batán 369; menús S15-30, mains S12-24; 10am-11pm) One of the town’s best places to eat, this is a mix of gallery-restaurant, peña(bar or club featuring live folkloric music) and cultural center, and serves varied Peruvian and international dishes with has a decent wine list. The menú (set meal) is an excellent deal. On Friday and Saturday nights, El Batán has live shows of local music, anything from folk songs to traditional Andean music to Afro-Peruvian dance rhythms. There is a full bar and an upstairs art gallery.
Mr Grill (36-8341; Urrelo 849; mains S15-30; 7-10pm) It only takes a step into this low-key dining