Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [370]
Cuy is seen as a true delicacy, so much so that in many indigenous interpretations of The Last Supper, Jesus and his disciples are sitting down to a hearty final feast of roast cuy.
An integral part of Andean culture, even beyond the kitchen table, cuy are also used by curanderos (healers) in ceremonial healing rituals. Cuy can be passed over a patient’s body and used to sense out a source of illness and cuy meat is sometimes ingested in place of hallucinogenic plants during shamanistic ceremonies.
If you can overcome your sentimental inhibitions, sample this furry treat. The rich flavors are a cross between rabbit and quail, and correctly prepared cuy can be an exceptional 7000-year-old feast.
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Hot springs (admission free) and mud baths will help soothe aching bones and can be found at Llanguat, reached by a 30-minute drive. You can also take a 7am combi from the Plaza de Armas (S2.50, 45 minutes) on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. It returns around noon.
The Dutch-run organization Proyecto Yannick (77-0590; www.celendinperu.com; Jirón Unión 333) offers volunteer opportunities working with children with Down’s Syndrome, and the English-, German-, and Dutch-speaking manager, Susan, also arranges private transportation and tours to the hot springs and local caves. Visit the project office for a map and excellent information about hotels, local sites and transport.
Hostal Raymi Wasi (97-855-1133; José Gálvez 420; s/d S20/30, s without bathroom S10) is a small space with dark but acceptable rooms; you can still see the cock-fighting ring in the middle of the courtyard (it was recently shut down because guests found it too noisy to sleep). Pay only a little more at Hostal Loyers (55-5210; José Gálvez 440; s/d S15/25, s/d without bathroom S10/17) and you’ll get colorful rooms, a fetching courtyard and hot(ish) electric showers. Right on the Plaza de Armas, Hostal Celendín (55-5041; Unión 305; s/d S24/34.50; ) has reliable hot water and worn but inviting rooms, many with balconies and grand plaza views. The new kid on the block, Hostal Imperial (55-5492; 2 de Mayo 568; s/d S25/35 s/d without bathroom S15/25) has the best rooms of this bunch, though the singles with shared bathrooms are poky. The town’s disco is held here on Saturday nights (bring earplugs). Susan at Proyecto Yannick was constructing a budget hostel in the center of town at the time of research; inquire at the office for more information.
Snack Cafe (José Gálvez 512; meals S4-7; 6-10pm) makes a valiant attempt at pizza. Hostal Celendín (Plaza de Armas; meals S5-12; 8am-11pm), serves pizzas and lots of local specialties, including the tasty cuy típico – fried guinea pig with mashed sweet potato and spring-onion-and-lemon sauce (S12). La Reserva (50-5817; José Gálvez 420; meals S4-10; 7pm-midnight) is another popular eating choice, with multilevel seating and a warm ambience. Carbon & Leña (80-5736; Calle 2 de Mayo 416; meals S3-8; 10am-10pm) uses, as it name indicates, charcoal and wood fires to roast every kind of meat, from beef to goat.
The rough road from Cajamarca is far better than the one from Chachapoyas. Most bus companies are found around the Plaza de Armas.
Transportes Rojas (José Gálvez 418) has daily buses to Cajamarca (S10, four hours) at 5:30am, 2:30pm and 4:30pm, and Royal Palace’s (55-5322; Unión 504) also has departures to Cajamarca (S10) at 2pm and 4:30pm. Virgen del Carmen (55-5238; Cáceres 110), located behind the market, goes to Chachapoyas (S30, 10 to 11 hours) via Leimebamba (S20, seven to eight hours) at 9am on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays. Colectivos for Chachapoyas (S30) depart from the intersection of Cáceres and Marcelino González at 2pm. If you hang out at the intersection called El Monumento, you may be able to flag down a ride with a passing truck or private vehicle as a paying passenger; bring enough food and snacks for the long journey.
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CELENDÍN TO CHACHAPOYAS
Although this rough but beautiful road may still be temporarily impassable