Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [379]
A 9.8km trail climbs from the south end of Tingo to the ruins, situated about 1200m above the town. Signposts on the way make the trail easy to follow, but it is an exhausting, often hot, climb; allow five to six hours. Remember to bring water as none is available along the trail. During the rainy season (October to April), especially the latter half, the trail can become very muddy and travel can be difficult. You can hike to Kuélap from Choctámal Lodge in about three hours and from María in about two hours.
Colectivo taxis to Kuélap (S14, three hours) depart from Chachapoyas throughout the day. Transportes Roller (Grau 302) has buses to Kuélap (S27.60, 3½ hours), via Tingo, Choctámal and María, leaving Chachapoyas at 4pm and returning from Kuélap at 6am and 8am the next morning. Alternatively, at Kuélap you can ask about getting a ride back to Chachapoyas with returning private colectivos or combis. Frequent combis (S5, 1½ hours) and colectivo taxis (S8, 1½ hours) run between Tingo and Chachapoyas. Tour agencies arrange day trips from Chachapoyas.
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LEIMEBAMBA
pop 1100 / elev 2050m
This convivial cobblestoned town – often spelled ‘Leymembamba’ – lies at the head of the Río Utcubamba. It has an endearingly laid-back allure that is maintained by its relative isolation: the nearest big city is many hours away by dirt roads. Horses are still a popular form of transport around town and the friendliness of the townsfolk is legendary in the region. Surrounded by a multitude of archaeological sites from the Chachapoyas era, this is a great place to base yourself while exploring the province.
Information
Two phone offices, an internet cafe and a police station are on the plaza. Leimebamba doesn’t have an ATM; bring cash.
Sights & Activities
In Leimebamba a small tourist center & museum opens erratically on the main plaza. A new tomb, three day’s walk south from Leimebamba, was discovered in 1999.
LAGUNA DE LOS CÓNDORES
This part of Peru hit the spotlight in 1996 when a group of farmers found six chullpas (ancient Andean funerary towers) on a ledge 100m above a cloud-forest lake. This burial site was a windfall for archaeologists, and its 219 mummies and more than 2000 artifacts have given researchers a glimpse past the heavy curtain of history that conceals the details of the Chachapoyas civilization. So spectacular was the find that a Discovery Channel film was made about it and a museum was built in Leimebamba to house the mummies and cultural treasures.
Some of the tombs, plastered and painted in white or red-and-yellow ochre, are decorated with signature Chachapoyas zigzag friezes. All lie huddled against the cliff on a natural ledge overlooking the stunning Laguna de los Cóndores. Don’t get too excited about spotting any of the wide-winged Andean wonders though – this lake was renamed after the find to make it more ‘tourist friendly.’
The only way to get to the Laguna is by a strenuous 10- to 12-hour hike on foot and horseback from Leimebamba. The return journey takes three days; horses and guides can be arranged either in Leimebamba or at travel agencies in Chachapoyas.
LA CONGONA
The most captivating of the many ancient ruins strewn around Leimebamba, La Congona is definitely worth the three-hour hike needed to get here. The flora-covered site contains several well-preserved circular houses that, oddly for Chachapoyas culture, sit on square bases. Inside, the houses are adorned with intricate niches, and outside wide circular terraces surround each house. This archaeological site is renowned for the intricate decoration on the buildings and particularly for the numerous sophisticated masonry friezes. A tall tower can be climbed by a remarkable set of curving steps for wide-angle panoramas of the surrounding valley. Based on the location of this site, it’s believed that it may have been a military bunker.
The site is reached in three hours from Leimebamba along a path beginning at the lower end of Calle 16 de Julio. A guide is recommended; expect to pay around S20 to