Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [39]
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VEGETARIANS & VEGANS
In a country where most people survive on potatoes, there can be a general befuddlement over why anyone would choose to be vegetarian. This attitude has started to change, however, and many large cities and especially tourist-heavy towns have restaurants that are strictly veggie. Among other things, these places serve popular national dishes that use soy substitutes in place of meat. Vegetarian restaurants are found primarily in Lima and cities such as Cuzco and Arequipa.
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Big Papa: All of the potatoes in the world can be traced back to a single progenitor from Peru.
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It is possible, however, for vegetarians to find dishes at the average restaurant. Many of the potato salads, such as papas a la huancaína, ocopa and causa are made without meat, as is palta a la jardinera, an avocado stuffed with vegetable salad. Sopa de verduras (vegetable soup), tortilla (Spanish omelet) and tacu tacu (beans and rice mixed together) are other options. If there aren’t any vegetarian dishes on the menu, just ask for un plato vegetariano (a vegetarian dish): most restaurants will readily accommodate the request. Be aware that the term sin carne (without meat) refers only to red meat or pork, so you could end up with chicken or seafood instead. Chifas are always a good bet since they generally feature at least one meat-free menú.
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Eat Smart in Peru by Joan Peterson and Brook Soltvedt is a well-illustrated food, menu and market guide to the country that also offers a smattering of recipes.
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Vegans will have a much harder time. Peruvian cuisine is based on eggs, cheese and milk, and infinite combinations thereof. Self-catering is the best option; markets have wide selections of grains, legumes, fruits and vegetables.
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EATING WITH KIDS
‘Kids’ meals’ (small portions at small prices) are not normally offered in Peruvian restaurants. However, most establishments are quite family-friendly and can produce simple foods, such as bistec a la plancha (grilled steak) or pollo a la plancha (grilled chicken) on request. Other basic items include cheese and ham sandwiches, pasta and hamburgers. Among Peruvian kids, a perennial dinnertime favorite is arroz con huevo frito (rice with a fried egg).
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The culinary website Yanuq (www.yanuq.com) has an extensive online database of Peruvian recipes in Spanish and English.
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If traveling with an infant, stock up on formula and baby food before heading into rural areas. Avocados are safe and nutritious, and can be served to children as young as six months old. Bananas are found just about everywhere and make a great snack, mashed or whole. Young children should avoid water and ice as they are more susceptible to stomach illnesses.
For other tips on traveling with children, Click here.
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TRAVEL YOUR TASTE BUDS
In the Andes, potato dishes and spicy soups are de rigueur but it is the roasted cuy (guinea pig) that grabs every traveler’s attention (see boxed text, Click here). On the coast, where seafood reigns supreme, ceviche attracts the most inspection, especially in Lima, where it is a lunchtime staple. (Though most people assume it is raw – it isn’t. The fish is ‘cooked’ by lime juice through a process of oxidation.)
The area around Arequipa, in the south, is renowned for its picantes (spicy, bubbling stews served with chunks of white cheese) and rocoto relleno (hot peppers stuffed with meat and cheese). Huancayo, to the north, is home to papas a la huancaína, steamed potatoes served with a spicy, creamy cheese sauce; while on the far north coast, locals dig into omelets made of manta ray and heaping plates of duck stewed with