Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [393]
Outside Puerto Maldonado are a dozen jungle lodges (Click here and Click here).
Eating
There are no fancy restaurants in town, although several down-to-earth, excellent-value places serve up good Peruvian food. Regional specialties include juanes (rice steamed with fish or chicken in a banana leaf), chilcano (a broth of fish chunks flavored with the native cilantro herb) and parrillada de la selva (a barbecue of marinated meat, often game, in a Brazil-nut sauce). A plátano (plantain) is served boiled or fried as an accompaniment to many meals.
La Casa Nostra (57-2647; Av 2 de Mayo 287a; snacks S3-8; 7am-1pm & 5-11pm) This convivial joint used to serve as a local hangout for guides; it has now moved to smaller premises and lost its hangout status but remains the top cafe in town. It serves varied breakfasts, tamales, great juices, snacks, desserts and Puerto Maldonado’s best coffee.
Los Gustitos del Cura (57-3107; Loreto 258; snacks S3-8; 11am-10pm) For a sweet treat or the best ice cream in town, drop in to this French-owned patisserie with a pleasant courtyard at the rear. Sandwiches, cakes and drinks are dished up, and local objets d’arte are on sale.
Chifa Sol Grande (Av 2 de Mayo 306; menú S5-8; lunch & dinner) The Peruvian Amazon version of Chinese food is actually quite tasty. This place is the most locally popular joint to try it out. Closing time is officially 11pm, though the place often stays open much later.
La Estrella (57-3107; Velarde 474; menú from S6; 5pm-10pm) This chicken restaurant looks like a US fast-food outlet. Its clean, bright decor attracts locals happy to wolf down the quarter-chicken, fries and chicken broth – the standard and most popular menu item.
Restaurant (cnr Av 2 de Mayo & Madre de Dios; mains S8-15; dinner) It may have no name, street number or phone number but this place is far from unknown by the locals, who flock here for great fish with rice and plátano. Food is prepared on a grill outside and tables fill up fast.
Burgos’s House (57-3653; Puno 106; mains S13-22; 10am-10pm) There has long been need of a restaurant like this in the town center: large, airy, courteous and serving up regional goodies with an emphasis on fish. Burgos’s also provides juanes and a mixed platter of jungle dishes for S22.
El Tigre (57-2286; Tacna 456; menú S10-15; lunch) This place is popular at lunch for its ceviche (seafood marinated in lime juice). Other local fish dishes are also offered.
Pizzería El Hornito/Chez Maggy (57-2082; Carrión 271; pizzas S15-25; 6pm-late) This popular but dimly lit hangout on the Plaza de Armas serves pasta and amply sized, wood-fired pizzas – the best in town. There’s no lunch: the oven makes it too hot during the day!
Also consider the ambient restaurant at Wasai Lodge (opposite).
Drinking
A handful of nightclubs sputter into life late on weekend nights, usually with recorded and occasionally live music. Loreto has most of the good bars.
Discoteca Witite (57-2419, 57-3861; Velarde 151) Brightly painted Witite has stood the test of time. The crowd is mixed and at weekends the partying here goes on all night.
Tsaica (Loreto 327) With funky indigenous art on the walls, this is Puerto’s liveliest bar. Recommended.
La Choza del Candamo (57-2872; 7pm-late) Outside of town, this relaxed peña (bar/club featuring live folkloric music) has a restaurant where you can sample food from all three regions of Peru – coast, mountain and jungle – and listen to the latest live musical offerings. You’ll find it 4km along the airport road.
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BORDER CROSSING: BRAZIL VIA PUERTO MALDONADO
A reasonable, mostly paved road, part of the future Interoceanic Hwy, goes from Puerto Maldonado to Iberia and on to Iñapari, on the Brazilian border. Along the road are small settlements of people involved in the Brazil nut farming, cattle ranching and logging industries. After 170km you reach Iberia, which has