Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [397]
There is one superb getaway located away from the rivers in the jungle itself. For a touch of Franco-Swiss style and comfort, you won’t go far wrong at the relaxing hideaway resort of Estancia Bello Horizonte (082-57-2748, 982-60-2356; estancia@estanciabellohorizonte.com; JM Grain 105, Puerto Maldonado; per person 4 days & 3 nights US$320), which is built all in local wood and situated in a large open clearing on a ridge overlooking the rainforest. Located 20km from Puerto Maldonado on the east side of the Río Madre de Dios, the final approach to the Estancia is along a 6km private road through dense jungle. The wooden accommodation bungalows contain smallish, comfortable rooms with bathrooms; each has a hammock and reclining chairs for lounging in. The main building contains a relaxing dining, reading, drinking and chill-out space where you can enjoy impressive views over the virgin rainforest. The child-friendly grounds include a soccer pitch, a volleyball court, a swimming pool and sign-posted jungle walks.
Lago Sandoval
An attractive jungle lake, Lago Sandoval is surrounded by different types of rainforest and is about two hours from Puerto Maldonado down the Madre de Dios. The best way to see wildlife is to stay overnight and take a boat ride on the lake, though day trips to the lake are offered. Half the trip is done by boat and the other half on foot. Bring your own food and water. For about S75 to S125 (bargain – several people can travel for this price), a boat from Puerto Maldonado will drop you at the beginning of the trail and pick you up later. The boat driver will also guide you to the lake on request. With luck, you might see caiman, turtles, exotic birds, monkeys and maybe the endangered giant river otters that live in the lake.
You can also reach the lake by hiking along a 3km trail from the jungle lodges here, located between Reserva Amazonica Lodge and EcoAmazonia Lodge but on the opposite (south) side of the river. The flat trail has boardwalks and gravel, and is easily passable year-round. From the end of this trail, you can continue 2km on a narrower, less-maintained trail to the inexpensive Willy Mejía Cepa Lodge, or take a boat ride across the lake to Sandoval Lake Lodge, the best lodge in this area.
Family-run Willy Mejía Cepa Lodge (r per person US$15-25) has been offering basic accommodations to budget travelers for two decades. Willy’s father, Don César Mejía Zaballos, homesteaded the lake 50 years ago. The lodge can sleep 20 people in bungalow-style rooms with shared bathrooms. Bottled drinks are sold. Prices include simple family meals, accommodation and excursions (in Spanish). Book first in Puerto Maldonado at Velarde 487 and ask about discounts, which are frequently given according to group size.
Sandoval Lake Lodge (per 3 days/2 nights s/d US$348/596) is on the other side of the lake to Willy Mejía. Getting there is half the fun. After hiking the 3km to the lake (bicycle rickshaws are available for luggage and for people with walking difficulties), you board canoes to negotiate narrow canals through a flooded palm-tree forest inhabited by red-bellied macaws, then silently paddle across the beautiful lake to the lodge. With luck, you may spot the endangered giant river otter, several pairs of which live in the lake (early morning is best). Various monkey species and a host of birds and reptiles can also be seen. Hikes into the forest are offered, and the knowledgeable guides are multilingual.
* * *
PUNK CHICKENS
Listen carefully as your boat passes the banks of the Río Tambopata. If you hear lots of hissing, grunting and sounds of breaking