Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [409]
Telecentro (Palca 12, La Merced) Make cheap calls here.
Sights & Activities
Both towns are more for strolling around to take in the local color.
The stairs at the northwest end of Av 2 de Mayo afford a good view of La Merced, and from the balcony at the southwest end there’s a photogenic river view.
Around San Ramón are many impressive waterfalls. A much-visited 35m cascade, Catarata El Tirol, lies 5km east of San Ramon off the La Merced road. You can take a taxi the first 2km; the last 3km is along shady forest paths and streams. Off the Pichanaqui road at Puente Yurinaki are the higher waterfalls of Catarata Velo de la Novia and Catarata Bayoz, a dramatic series of cascades. Agencies in La Merced or Tarma arrange tours.
There is a colorful daily market in La Merced. An interesting weekend market visited by local indígenas (people of indigenous descent) is held at San Luis de Shuaro, 22km beyond La Merced. Asháninka tribespeople occasionally come into La Merced to sell handicrafts.
Sleeping
La Merced has most of the decent digs; San Ramón sports some luxury hotels.
LA MERCED
Hospedaje Santa Rosa (53-1012; Av 2 de Mayo 447; s/d S20/60) The cleanest of the cheapest hotels, the Santa Rosa boasts light rooms. Doubles get cable TV and large windows. Showers are cold. There are cheaper rooms with shared showers.
Hostal Fanny (77-5530, 95-448-4183; Tarma, cuadra 1; s/d S35/50) Clean, pleasant option with sizeable, well-decorated, airy rooms and a restaurant.
Hotel Elio’s (53-1229; Palca 281; s/d S35/60) Just off the plaza, this is a good bargain. Spacious rooms make the beds look almost lost. There are writing desks, fans, cable TV and spotless bathrooms. Street-facing rooms are very noisy.
Hospedaje Kerol (33-5187; Tarma 373; s/d S40/50) Opposite Los Koquis restaurant, and set back from the plaza, this place offers clean, comfortable, plain rooms with cable TV. It’s secure, too. The owner is as sunny as an Amazonian summer. Rooms at the back are quietest.
Hostal Rey (53-1185; www.hotelrey.net; Junín 103; s/d S45/55) Bright, inviting hallways lead to attractive rooms with fans, cable TV and hot showers. A restaurant on the top floor serves decent breakfasts, lunches and dinners while offering good views of the town. This place will do your laundry, too.
Hostal El Eden (53-1183; eleden@hotmail.com; Ancash 347; s/d S45/60) You pay for the plaza location, but the well-decorated rooms are OK, with TVs, fans and cold showers. Not all rooms have windows.
Reyna Hotel (53-1780, 53-2196; www.hotelreyna.com; Palca 259; s/d S60/80) You can’t go wrong with this modern, brightly tiled hotel and its sparkling cafeteria. Rooms feature direct-dial phones, fans, cable TV, excellent beds and hot showers. A nice, comfy choice.
SAN RAMÓN
The town itself is unexceptional. However, the best places to stay in this region lie outside, on the La Merced road.
Hotel Casablanca (33-1295; www.hotelcasablanca.com.pe; Carretera Central Km 100.2; s/d S80/100) One of the better hotels on the San Ramon–La Merced strip, the Casablanca has spacious rooms tucked away down long, tiled corridors. The decor is old fashioned but rooms have minifridges, fans, cable TV and sizeable hot-water bathrooms. Most overlook the hotel pool, and there’s also a pleasant restaurant serving regional specialties such as tacacho (pork and plantain).
Rio Grande Inn (33-2193, 95-71-3316; www.riograndebungalows.com; Carretera Central Km 97; d S160) This smart and well-appointed hotel is set in verdant grounds by the Río Chanchamayo. Rooms have wood paneling and minifridges along with the usual top-end hotel facilities. Breakfast is included in the price, as is use of the gorgeous pool. A restaurant serves light meals and refreshments.
Eating
LA MERCED
Consider any one of many chicken restaurants around the corner of Tarma and Ayacucho: a quarter-chicken with fries here sets you back S5. The mercado at Tarma and Amazonas has plenty of stalls selling juice and cake – for travel-hardened stomachs.
Los Koquis (53-1536; Tarma 376; mains S10-20; 11am-11pm)