Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [413]
Flocks of ominous-looking vultures hover over the town and bland, hasty modern development in the center barely disguises the shantytown simplicity a few blocks further out. Still, it’s a lively enough place come sundown and most importantly, a starting point for a spectacular river adventure north to Iquitos and, if time and inclination allow, on to Brazil and the Atlantic.
Beyond the city sprawl, there are reasons for the traveler to linger: interesting indigenous communities to visit and river lodges to relax at.
Information
Internet cabinas abound on every block. Several banks have ATMs and change money and traveler’s checks. Foreign-exchange bureaus are found along the fourth, fifth and sixth cuadras (blocks) of Raimondi. For jungle guides, go to Yarinacocha.
C@ribe Internet (Tacna 326) Nice and central.
Centro de Llamadas (Tacna 388) Call center that’s even more central. International calls possible.
Clínica Santa Rosa (57-1689; Inmaculada 529; 24hr) Quite good for stool, urine or blood tests.
Clínica Zar Nicolás (57-2854; Sáenz Peña 166) Also good.
Lavandería Gasparin (Portillo 526; 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat) Provides both self-service and drop-off laundry services.
Suy Suy (57-8223; Tarapaca 810) A travel agency with long opening hours: good for purchasing last-minute flight tickets.
Tourist booth (57-1303; 2 de Mayo 111) At the airport; a small booth that is more often than not unattended.
Viajes Laser (57-1120; fax 57-3776; Raimondi 399) Western Union is here, at one of Pucallpa’s better travel agencies.
Sights
Many travelers visit nearby Yarinacocha, which is more interesting than Pucallpa and has some good accommodation options.
About 4km from the center of Pucallpa, off the airport road, is Parque Natural (adult/child 5-14 S3/1; www.parquenaturalpucallpa.com; 9am-5pm). This is an Amazon zoo set in lush grounds, with a museum displaying Shipibo pottery and a few other objects, a small children’s playground and a snack bar. Buses heading to the airport can drop you here, or take a mototaxi for about S4.
Usko-Ayar (57-3088; Sánchez Cerro 465) is the gallery of the visionary local artist Pablo César Amaringo Shuna, whose work and biography can be accessed at www.egallery.com. Other promising Amazonian artists study, work and display here – it’s well worth a visit. Tell drivers it’s near the Iglesia Fray Marcos.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Hospedaje Barbtur (57-2532; Raimondi 670; s/d without bathroom S13/18, s/d S25/35) This family-run hotel is small, friendly and well maintained, with cold showers. En suite rooms have cable TV.
Posada del Rey (57-5815; Portillo 753; s/d S17/22) The 18 high-ceilinged rooms here are compact, clean, pleasant for the price and – if you score one with a street-facing balcony – light. Cold showers and fans keep you cool; a TV can be added for S5.
Hospedaje Richard (57-6477; San Martín 350; s/d with air-con S45/70, s/d without air-con S25/50; ) The mixed bag of rooms at this centrally located place are all quite small. Note that the better ones with air-con are on the lower floor, while up top are bare-bones affairs with fans.
Hospedaje Komby (57-1562; hostalkomby@hotmail.com; Ucayali 360; s/d S35/45; ) Clearly in a quandary about whether to aim for budget or luxury, Komby has rooms that veer between the two brackets. Accommodation overall is clean but basic, though the small pool and a restaurant compensate for this.
Hostal Happy Day (57-2067; fax 57-3263; Huáscar 440; s S35-60, d S45-70; ) You can’t miss this orange-and-ochre-colored building. Rooms are small but neat and quiet. Breakfast is included; the top tariffs are for air-con.
Hospedaje El Virrey (57-5611; hotelvirrey@speedy.com.pe; Tarapaca 945; s/d from 45/70; ) Rooms are neat, well kept and quiet, although