Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [430]
Corrientillo is a lake near the Río Nanay. There are a few bars around the lake, which is locally popular for swimming on weekends and has good sunsets. It’s about 15km from town; a mototaxi will charge about S15.
Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm
A visit to the fascinating Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm (065-23-2665; www.amazonanimalorphanage.org; Padra Cocha; admission S15; 9am-4pm Tue-Sun) is highly recommended. Ostensibly this is a conservatorium and breeding center for Amazonian butterflies. Butterflies aplenty there certainly are, including the striking blue morpho (Morpho menelaus) and the fearsome-looking owl butterfly (Caligo eurilochus), which has a big owl-like eye on its wing. But it’s the farm’s exotic animals that steal the show. Raised as orphans and protected within the property are several mischievous monkeys, Lolita the tapir and Pedro Bello, a majestic orphaned jaguar, who has his own enclosure. You’ll also meet capricious Rosa, a giant anteater who wanders around freely looking for ants. To get there, take a small boat from Bellavista-Nanay, a small port 2km north of Iquitos, to the village of Padre Cocha. Boats run all day. The farm is signposted and is a 15-minute walk through the village from the Padre Cocha boat dock.
Laguna Quistacocha
This lake, 15km south of Iquitos, is served by minibuses several times an hour from near Plaza 28 de Julio (cnr Bermudéz with Moore; S2), as well as mototaxis (S12). There is a small zoo of local fauna here, much improved of recent years, and an adjoining fish hatchery, which has 2m-long paiche, now an endangered river fish due to loss of habitat and its popularity as a food. An attempt to rectify the situation is being made with the breeding program here. A pedestrian walk circles the lake, swimming is possible and paddleboats are available for hire. There are several restaurants and a hiking trail to the Itaya River. It’s fairly crowded with locals on the weekend but not midweek. Admission is S10.
Jungle Lodges & Expeditions
Jungle ‘guides’ will approach you everywhere in Iquitos. Some will be independent operators, and many will be working on behalf of a lodge. Travelers have had mixed experiences with private guides; none are especially recommended. All guides should have a permit or license – if they don’t, check with the tourist office. Get references for any guide, and proceed with caution (also see Dangers & Annoyances, Click here). The better lodges snap up the best guides quickly and can arrange wilderness trips.
There are numerous lodges both up- and downriver from Iquitos. Take your time choosing: a bewildering variety of programs and activities are available and quality varies considerably. There is the usual mix of luxury options, where relaxation plays a key part, and more rustic lodges offering camping, hiking, fishing (July to September are the best months) and other adventurous side trips. Most lodges have offices in Iquitos.
A wide range of options at varying prices can be booked from abroad or in Lima, but if you show up in Iquitos without a reservation you can certainly book a lodge or tour and it’ll cost you less. Bargaining is not out of the question, even though operators show you fixed price lists. If the lodge has space and you have the cash, they’ll nearly always give you a discount. If planning on booking after you arrive, avoid the major Peruvian holidays, when places fill with local holidaymakers. June to September (the dry months and the summer vacation for North American and European visitors) is also quite busy.
The lodges are some distance from Iquitos, so river transport is included in the price. Most of the area within 50km of the city is not virgin jungle. Chances of seeing big mammals here is