Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [465]
Costs & Reservations
Schedules and fares change frequently and vary from company to company; therefore, the prices quoted in this book are only approximations. You can check schedules online (but not make reservations, at least not yet) for the major players, including Cruz del Sur (www.cruzdelsur.com.pe), Ormeño (www.grupo-ormeno.com), Transportes Línea (www.transporteslinea.com.pe, in Spanish) and Oltursa (www.oltursa.com.pe, in Spanish).
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MEMORABLE BUS MOMENTS Rafael Wlodarski
Love it or hate it, chances are you’ll be spending time on the buses that brave the winding, potholed routes of the Andes and curving coastal highways of the deserts. We feel like we’ve spent half our lives on them – here’s a hit list of memorable moments:
Seatside shopping as armies of mobile vendors hawk fruits, vegetables and mysterious yet tasty snacks-on-a-stick. Look out for choclo con queso (grilled corn with cheese).
Peruvian panpipe pop tunes that initially provide a rich, auditory tapestry to your trip, but manage to lose their luster somewhere around the 14th replaying.
The unfortunate realization that Jean-Claude Van Damme has made more movies than all of the world’s martial-art-less actors combined.
When the bus leaves on time, the air-conditioning works and is not set to arctic, the radio and TV are silent and the seat-back actually reclines – you realize you have stumbled upon the long-lost bus-trip nirvana.
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There’s no bus-pass system. During off-peak travel periods, some companies offer discounted fares. Conversely, fares can double around major holidays (Click here), especially for Christmas, Semana Santa (the week leading up to Easter) or Fiestas Patrias at the end of July, when tickets sell out days ahead of time.
At other times, reservations for short journeys aren’t usually necessary. Just go to the terminal and buy a ticket for the next bus to your destination. For long-distance or overnight journeys, or if you’re headed someplace remote with only limited services, buy your ticket at least the day before. Most travel agencies will make reservations for you, but shockingly overcharge you for the ticket. Except in Lima, it’s cheaper to take a taxi to the bus terminal and buy the tickets yourself.
Luggage
When waiting in bus terminals, watch your luggage very carefully. Some terminals have left-luggage facilities. If not, the bus company may agree to keep your bags behind the desk, especially if you have an onward ticket later that same day. If you do this, don’t leave any valuables in your bag.
During the journey, your luggage will travel in the luggage compartment unless it is small enough to carry on board. This is reasonably safe. You are given a baggage tag in exchange for your bag, which should be securely closed or locked. Watch to be sure that your bag actually gets onto, and stays on, the bus.
Your hand luggage is a different matter. If you’re asleep with a camera around your neck, you might wake up with a neatly razored strap and no camera. Hide all valuables! Some travelers bring their rucksack on the bus with them, because of the reports of theft from luggage compartments. This only works if your pack is small enough to shove between your legs or keep on your lap. Never place any bags on the overhead luggage racks, which are unsecured.
For more advice on theft, Click here.
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CAR & MOTORCYCLE
It’s a long way from Lima to most destinations, so it’s better to take a bus or fly to wherever you want to go and rent a car from there. Given all the headaches and potential hazards of driving yourself around, consider hiring a taxi instead (Click here), which is often cheaper and easier.
At roadside checkpoints, where the police or military conduct meticulous document checks, you’ll occasionally see Peruvian drivers slipping an officer some money to smooth things along. The idea here is not to offer an (illegal) bribe, but simply a ‘gift’ or ‘on-the-spot fine’ so that you can get on your