Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [52]
El Virrey (www.elvirrey.com; 10am-7pm) Central Lima (Map; 427-5080; Pasaje de los Escribanos 107-115, Lima); San Isidro (Map; 440-0607; Dasso 141, San Isidro) The San Isidro branch is a bibliophile’s dream, with a vintage book room stocked with thousands of rare editions.
* * *
LIMA IN…
TWO DAYS
Start with the city’s colonial heart, at the Plaza de Armas (Click here), which is bordered by the stately Cathedral (Click here) and the Palacio de Gobierno (Click here). From there, head west to the Iglesia de Santo Domingo (Click here), where Peru’s most revered saints are entombed, then east, to the centuries-old catacombs at the Monasterio de San Francisco (Click here), then south to Iglesia de la Merced (Click here), home to awe-inducing baroque altars. For lunch, try the historic El Cordano (Click here) or the lovely Domus (Click here).
Afterwards, continue on to the Plaza San Martín (Click here), where you can see Chancay pottery inside a pristine historic mansion at the Museo Andrés del Castillo (Click here) and end the day with a most important pilgrimage: a pisco sour at El Bolivarcito (Click here), the renowned bar inside the Gran Hotel Bolivar.
On the second day, you can go pre-Columbian or contemporary: view breathtaking Moche pottery at the Museo Larco (Click here) or see a gripping exhibit on the Internal Conflict at the Museo de la Nación (Click here). In the afternoon, savor Lima’s tastiest ice cream at the News Café (Click here) in San Isidro, stroll through the shady Bosque El Olivar (Click here) and visit Huaca Pucllana (Click here), the centuries-old adobe temple at the heart of Miraflores. Spend the evening watching the world go by from the outdoor terrace at Haiti (Click here), in full view of the Parque Kennedy.
For a multitude of dining options, see boxed text, Click here.
THREE DAYS
Seeking something colonial? In the morning, visit the exquisite Museo Pedro de Osma (Click here) in Barranco to view some of the most intriguing Cuzco School canvases and an abundance of relics from the days of the viceroyalty. Otherwise, make the day trip to Pachacamac (Click here) to stand amid arid ruins dating back almost two millennia. Spend the afternoon haggling for crafts at the Mercado Indio (Click here) in Miraflores.
* * *
Ibero (www.iberolibrerias.com.pe; 10am-8pm) Diagonal (Map; 242-2798; Diagonal 500, Miraflores); Surco (Monterrey 170, Santiago de Surco); Larco (Map; 445-5520; Av José Larco 199, Miraflores); LarcoMar (Map; 242- 6777; Malecón de la Reserva 610, Miraflores)
KSA Tomada (Map; 422-5449; www.ksatomada.com; Conquistadores 1238; 7:30am-11pm Mon-Sat) Great selection. Plus a cafe, free wi-fi and comfy couches.
Cultural Centers
Some of the best events in the city – film screenings, art exhibits, theatre and dance – are put on by the various cultural institutes, some of which have several branches. Check individual websites, newspapers or the web portal The Peru Guide (www.theperuguide.com) for listings.
Alianza Francesa (610-8000; alianzafrancesa.org.pe) Central Lima (Map; Av Garcilaso de la Vega 1550); Miraflores (Map; Av Arequipa 4598, Miraflores) In addition to French cultural events, the Alianza stages annual runway shows of contemporary Peruvian fashion.
Asociación Cultural Peruano Británica (615-3434; www.britanico.edu.pe) Miraflores (Map; Malecón Balta 740); San Isidro (Map; Av Arequipa 3495) The institute has a library with British newspapers, an impressive gallery space, and is host to film and theater productions.
Centro Cultural de España (CCELIMA; Map; 330-0412; www.ccelima.org; Plaza Washington, Natalio Sánchez 181, Santa Beatriz; 9am-9pm) A full range of offerings, including a roomy 1st-floor gallery that puts on some of Lima’s most intriguing contemporary art exhibits.
Centro Cultural Inca Garcilaso (Map; 623-2656; www.ccincagarcilaso.gob.pe; Ucayali 391, Central Lima; 10am-7:30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) Part of the Ministry of Foreign Relations, the Centro hosts concerts and exhibits related to Peruvian culture.
Goethe-Institut