Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [56]
Lima Tours (Map; 619-6901; www.limatours.com.pe; Jirón Belén 1040, Central Lima; 9:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm Sat) A well-known agency that handles all manner of travel arrangements. Also organizes gay-friendly trips and basic gastronomic tours of Lima.
Romao Tours (Map; 627-4578, 627-4579; Nicolás de Piérola 994, Central Lima; 9:30am-7pm Mon-Sat) From plane tickets to train tickets.
Victor Travel Services (Map; 433-5547; www.victortravelservice.com; Jirón de la Unión 1068, Central Lima) Helpful for local information, as well as travel all over Peru.
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DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Like any large Latin American city, Lima is a land of haves and have-nots, something that has made stories about crime here the stuff of legend. To some degree, the city’s dangers have been overblown. Lima has improved greatly since the 1980s, when pickpockets, muggers and carjackers plied their trade with impunity. Even so, this is a big city, in which one in five people live in poverty, so crime is to be expected. The most common offense is theft and readers have reported regular muggings. You are unlikely to be physically hurt, but it is nonetheless best to keep a streetwise attitude.
Do not wear flashy jewelry and keep your camera in your bag when you are not using it. It is best to keep your cash in your pocket and take only as much as you’ll need for the day. And, unless you think you’ll need your passport for official purposes, leave it at the hotel; a photocopy will do. Blending in helps, too: limeños favor a muted wardrobe of jeans and sweaters. Hitting the streets in designer sneakers or brand-new trekking gear will get you noticed.
Be wary at crowded events and the areas around bus stops and terminals. These bring out pickpockets – even in upscale districts. Late at night, it is preferable to take taxis, especially in downtown, or if you’ve been partying until late in Barranco. The areas of Rímac, Callao, Surquillo and La Victoria can get quite rough so approach with caution (taxis are best). The most dangerous neighborhoods are San Juan de Lurigancho, Los Olivos, Comas, Vitarte and El Agustino.
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SOUTH AMERICAN EXPLORERS
Now more than three decades old, the venerable South American Explorers Club (SAE; Map; 445-3306; Piura 135, Miraflores; 9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-8pm Wed, 9:30am-1pm Sat) is an indispensable resource for long-term travelers, journalists and scientists spending long periods in Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia and Argentina. It has an extensive library as well as a vast array of guides and maps for sale, from topographic plans to trail maps for the Inca Trail, Mt Ausangate, the Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Huayhuash. You can also get useful information on travel conditions in remote areas, research volunteer opportunities and pick up a copy of the Lima Survival Kit (US$35), a handy guide for new long-term residents that details how to find health care and good schools for kids.
The club is a member-supported, nonprofit organization (it helped launch the first cleanup of the Inca Trail and has supported local medicine drives). Annual dues are US$60 per person (US$90 per couple); special discounts are available for ISIC holders and volunteers. Members receive full use of the clubhouse and its facilities, including luggage storage, poste restante, a book exchange, access to the online magazine South American Explorer, and discounts on items sold on-site. Members are also eligible for discounts at participating businesses throughout Peru. There are additional clubhouses in Cuzco, Quito and Buenos Aires. (Find contact information for these online.) You can sign up in person at one of the offices or via the website.
Nonmembers are welcome to browse some of the information and purchase guides or maps.
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In addition, be skeptical of unaffiliated touts and taxi drivers who try to sell you on tours or