Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [59]
Iglesia de San Pedro (Map; 428-3010; www.sanpedrodelima.org; cnr Azángaro & Ucayali; admission free; 8:30am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) is a small 17th-century church considered to be one of the finest examples of baroque colonial-era architecture in Lima. It was consecrated by the Jesuits in 1638 and has changed little since. The interior is sumptuously decorated with gilded altars, Moorish-style carvings and an abundance of glazed tile.
Iglesia de San Agustín (Map; 427-7548; cnr Ica & Camaná; admission free; 8-9am & 4:30-7:30pm Mon-Fri) has an elaborate churrigueresque facade (completed in 1720), replete with stone carvings of angels, flowers, fruit (and, of course, Saint Augustine). Limited operating hours can make it a challenge to visit. The interiors are drab, but the church is home to a curious woodcarving called La Muerte (Death) by 18th-century sculptor Baltazar Gavilán. As one (probably fictional) story goes, Gavilán died in a state of madness after viewing his own chilling sculpture in the middle of the night. The piece sometimes travels, so call ahead.
Colonial Mansions
There are few remaining colonial mansions in Lima since many of them have been lost to expansion, earthquakes and the perennially moist weather. Many now operate as private offices or educational centers, which can make seeing interiors difficult. The most immaculate of these casonas is the famous Palacio Torre Tagle (Map; Ucayali 363; closed Sat & Sun), completed in 1735, with its ornate baroque portico (the best one in Lima) and striking Moorish-style balconies. Unfortunately, it is now home to Peru’s Foreign Ministry, so entry is restricted. Groups and educational organizations, however, can request a tour in advance via the oficina cultural (311-2400).
Innocuously tucked on a side street by the post office is Casa Aliaga (Map; http://casadealiaga.com; Jirón de la Unión 224), which stands on land given in 1535 to Jerónimo de Aliaga, one of Pizarro’s followers, and which has been occupied by 16 generations of his descendants. It may not look like much from the outside, but the interiors are lovely, with vintage furnishings and tilework. It can only be visited via organized excursions with Lima Tours (Click here).
Other historic (if less pristine) casonas include the Casa de la Riva (Map; Ica 426; admission S5; 10am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri), a handsome, 18th-century mansion with beautiful wooden balconies, an elegant patio and period furnishings. Two blocks to the north, the cornflower blue Casa de Oquendo (Casa Osambela; Map; 427-7987; Conde de Superunda 298; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) is a ramshackle turn-of-the-19th-century house (in its time, the tallest in Lima) with a creaky lookout tower that, on a clear day, has views of Callao. Tours for small groups can be arranged ahead of time with the helpful manager, Juan Manuel Ugarte, but walk-ins can be accommodated provided he isn’t busy. Donations are welcomed in exchange for this service. Toward the center of downtown, another casona, the Casa de Riva-Aguero (Map; 626-6600; Camaná 459; admission S2; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri) houses a small, insipid folk-art collection.
East of the plaza, the lovely red Casa de Pilatos (Map; 427-5814; Ancash 390; admission free; 8am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) is home to offices for the Tribunal Constitucional (Supreme Court). Access is a challenge: visitors are only allowed into the courtyard provided there aren’t official meetings going on. Enter through the side door on Azángaro.
OTHER CENTRAL LIMA SIGHTS
Museo Banco Central de Reserva del Per