Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [95]
An important port lying 235km south of Lima, Pisco and the nearby town of Paracas are generally used as bases to see the abundant wildlife of the Islas Ballestas. Pisco also shares its name with the national beverage, a brandy that is made throughout the region. The area is of historical and archaeological interest, having hosted one of the most highly developed pre-Inca civilizations – the Paracas culture from 700 BC until AD 400 (Click here). Later it acted as a base for Peru’s revolutionary fever in the 1800s.
On August 15, 2007, the region was rocked by a devastating earthquake that lasted for three minutes and registered a whopping 8.0 on the Richter scale. The quake resulted in more than 500 deaths and toppled many of the colonial structures near the town’s centre that had long lent the city its charm and beauty – including the grand San Clemente Cathedral that was located right on the Plaza de Armas. Long after the international relief groups have packed up and left, the city is still struggling to resurrect itself from the rubble. Thousands remain without permanent homes; the murmurs you will hear on street corners and in cafes are that corruption and bureaucracy have prevented international aid money from getting into the hands of those who need it most.
Orientation & Information
Although the Pisco–Paracas area is spread out, it’s easy to get around. Public transportation between Pisco and the harbor at Paracas, 15km further south along the coast, leaves from Pisco’s market area or the main plaza in the El Chaco beach area of Paracas.
There’s no tourist office in Pisco, but travel agencies (Click here), the municipalidad (town hall; Map) on the main plaza and police (Map; 53-2884; San Francisco 132; 24hr) help when they can. Everything else you’ll need is found around the Plaza de Armas, including internet cafes. BCP (Map; Perez de Figueroa 162) has a Visa/MasterCard ATM and changes US dollars and traveler’s checks. Interbank (Map; San Martín 101) has a 24-hour global ATM.
Dangers & Annoyances
Never walk alone at night. Central Pisco is fairly safe, but the market and nearby beaches should be avoided after dark and visited only in a group during the day. Muggings at gunpoint are not unheard of, even on busy pedestrian streets, so always take a taxi after sunset. Be wary of taxi drivers at the turnoff on Carr Panamericana Sur who try to sell you on a particular hotel or agency – they are probably working for a commission and as such cannot be trusted to provide accurate information.
Sights & Activities
While the town of Pisco was once a showcase for pretty colonial architecture and monuments to the revolution, after the 2007 earthquake few of these colonial structures were left standing. At the same time, by walking its dusty streets you will witness how a powerful natural disaster can convert a bustling city to a ghost town overnight.
ISLAS BALLESTAS
Although grandiosely nicknamed the ‘poor man’s Galapagos,’ the Islas Ballestas make for a memorable excursion. The only way to get there is on a boat tour, offered by many tour agencies (Click here). While the tours do not actually disembark onto the islands, they do get you startlingly close to an impressive variety of wildlife. None of the small boats have a cabin, so dress to protect against the wind, spray and sun. The sea can get rough, so sufferers of motion sickness should take medication before boarding. Wear a hat (cheap ones are sold at the harbor), as it’s not unusual to receive a direct hit of guano (droppings) from the seabirds.
On the outward boat journey, which takes about 1½ hours, you can’t miss the famous three-pronged Candelabra geoglyph (Map), a giant figure etched into the sandy hills, which is more than 150m high and 50m wide. No one knows exactly who made the glyph, or when, or what it signifies, but theories abound. Some connect it to the Nazca Lines, while others propound that it served as a navigational guide for ancient sailors and was based on the constellation of the Southern Cross. Some even believe it to have