Peru - Lonely Planet Publications [98]
Paracas Necropolis (AD 1 to 400) is the site that yielded the treasure of exquisite textiles for which the Paracas culture is now known. This burial site can still be seen, despite the cover of drifting sands on the north side of Cerro Colorado, on the isthmus joining the Península de Paracas with the mainland.
The Necropolis consisted of a roughly rectangular walled enclosure in which more than 400 funerary bundles were found. Each contained an older mummified man (who was probably a nobleman or priest) wrapped in many layers of weavings. It is these textiles that are marveled at by visitors now. The textiles consist of a wool or cotton background embroidered with multicolored and exceptionally detailed small figures. These are repeated again and again, until often the entire weaving is covered by a pattern of embroidered designs. Motifs such as fish and seabirds, reflecting the proximity to the ocean, are popular, as are other zoomorphic and geometric designs.
Our knowledge is vague about what happened in the area during the thousand years after the Paracas culture disintegrated. A short distance to the southeast, the Nazca culture became important for several centuries after the disappearance of the Paracas culture. This in turn gave way to Wari influence from the mountains. After the sudden disappearance of the Wari empire, the area became dominated by the Ica culture, which was similar to and perhaps part of the Chincha empire. They in turn were conquered by the Incas.
About this time, a remarkable settlement was built by the expanding Incas, one that is perhaps the best-preserved early Inca site to be found in the desert lowlands today. This is Tambo Colorado (above), a sight filled with hallmarks of Inca architecture including trapezoid-shaped niches, windows and doorways built from adobe bricks. While not as spectacular as the Inca ruins in the Cuzco area, archaeology enthusiasts will find it worth a visit.
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Milsy Tours (Map; 53-5204; www.milsytours.com; San Francisco 113) Milsy has daily tours to the Islas Ballestas and Reserva Nacional de Paracas with guides who speak English and some French and Italian, too. It occasionally takes groups to Tambo Colorado and will arrange customized trips to Nazca.
Paracas Explorer (Map; 53-1487, 54-5089; www.pparacasexplorer.com; Paracas 9) In the El Chaco village of Paracas, this backpacker travel agency offers the usual island and reserve tours, as well as multiday trips that take you to Ica and Nazca (US$48 to US$175 per person).
Paracas Overland (Map; 53-3855; www.paracasoverland.com.pe; San Francisco 111) Popular with backpackers, this agency offers tours of the Islas Ballestas with its own fleet of boats, as well as to the Reserva Nacional de Paracas and Tambo Colorado. It can also arrange sandboarding trips to nearby dunes.
Sleeping
Pisco’s hostels generally offer the best deals, whereas Paracas has recently experienced a frenzy of construction of new luxury hotels.
PISCO
Many hostels will pick you up from the San Clemente turnoff on Carr Panamericana Sur.
Hostal Los Inkas Inn (Map; 53-6634, 54-5149; www.losinkasinn.com; Barrio Nuevo 14; dm/s/d/tr S20/35/60/80; ) This small, family-owned guesthouse has basic but tidy rooms, all with lock-boxes and fans. Dorms have five beds and bathrooms. There is also a mini-swimming pool and a rooftop terrace with games.
Hostal San Isidro (Map; 53-6471; www.sanisidrohostal.com; San Clemente 103; dm/s/d/tr S20/40/60/105; ) This backpacker inn has a free game room complete with all the toys (pool, table tennis etc). Rooms come with fans, cable TV and hot-water showers, and are situated around an outdoor swimming pool. Guests can use the shared kitchen or take advantage of the restaurant that serves up breakfast for S5 extra as well as snacks throughout the day.
Posada Hispana Hotel (Map; 53-6363; www.posadahispana.com; Bolognesi 236; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$15/25/35; ) With legions of fans, this friendly hostel has attractive bamboo and wooden fittings, a full-service restaurant, and a terrace