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STEP 10:

Once the selection is done, we need to fix the overall exposure. Remember, this layer is a Smart Object, so this means we can go right back into Camera Raw and readjust the Exposure setting. So, double-click on the Smart Object layer’s thumbnail to open the Camera Raw window. Set the Exposure slider back down to around 0 and click OK to return to Photoshop. Now, go to File>Save and save the photo as a PSD file. We’re done with Justin, now let’s put him into the new background.

Creating the Composite

Let’s bring everything together now. Remember, our background photo was taken at a specific focal length, knowing exactly where we’d place the subject, so there wouldn’t be any perspective or distortion problems. By shooting this way, you’ll be amazed at how easily your subject fits into the background image. Our main goal here is to make it look realistic, and the shadows are going to play a big part in it.

STEP ONE:

Open the background image (if it’s not open already). Since we only need one layer for the background, go to Layer>Flatten Image to flatten it into one layer.

STEP TWO:

Open the photo of Justin where he’s been selected from the studio background (if you don’t still have it open) and use the Move tool (V) to drag him into the background image. Now, you should have two layers: the Background layer and the Smart Object layer with Justin on it.

STEP THREE:

As you can see, Justin is too big for the background, so click on his layer to target it and go to Edit>Free Transform (or press Command-T [PC: Ctrl-T]). Press-and-hold the Shift key and click-and-drag one of the corner handles inward to resize him and make the photo smaller (press Command-0 [zero;PC: Ctrl-0] if you can’t see the corner handles). Press Return (PC: Enter) to lock in the transformation when you’re done.

STEP FOUR:

We’re missing one key thing to help pull this composite off—shadows. This isn’t true for all composites, though. If you’ve cropped the feet and don’t see the ground, then shadows aren’t as much of an issue. But any time you try to put someone standing in one scene into another scene, you need shadows to pull it off. The cool thing about the technique you’re about to see is that we’ll use the existing shadows, so we don’t have to create new ones. To start, press Command-J (PC: Ctrl-J) to make a copy of the Justin layer.

STEP FIVE:

Click on the layer mask on the original Justin layer and go to Edit>Fill. Set the Use pop-up menu to White and click OK to fill the layer mask with white (which reveals the original studio background again).

STEP SIX:

While we don’t want to keep everything from the studio background, we do want to keep the shadows and make them blend with the new background. So, change the layer blend mode to Hard Light and you’ll see a lot of the original background disappear (not all of it, but a lot). You’ll also notice the original shadows look like they blend in with the ground below his feet now.

STEP SEVEN:

To get rid of the rest of the studio background, select the Brush tool (B), use a medium-sized, soft-edged brush, and make sure the Mode pop-up menu in the Options Bar is set to Normal. Since the layer mask is white right now, we want to paint with black, so press D, then X to set your Foreground color to black, and start painting away the remnants of the original studio background. Paint everywhere except the area around his feet where the original shadows now cast on the ground. Don’t worry if you paint over him, because we have another copy of him on the top layer.

STEP EIGHT:

If you want to intensify the shadows (I think it would help here), then just press Command-J to duplicate the shadow layer and the shadows become even darker. If it’s too dark, just reduce the Opacity of the layer until the shadows look real. Cool huh? Instant shadows!

STEP NINE:

While we’re on the topic of shadows, I think we need to add one of our own right below his foot. These shadows are essential when someone is standing on the ground, because