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Read My Pins_ Stories From a Diplomat's Jewel Box - Madeleine Albright [10]

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Jewel Box.

Late in 1992, President-elect Clinton asked me to serve as America’s ambassador to the United Nations. During the Cold War, the UN Security Council had been frozen by rivalry between East and West. The Council could only act when the superpowers agreed, and they did not agree often or about very much. When I arrived, three years after the collapse of the Berlin Wall, relations had thawed and the Council had new life. Instead of the big powers preventing cooperative action, they were asking the world body to take on jobs no country wanted to do alone. This had important implications for international law—and for my wardrobe.

JAMES ESTRIN/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX

My friend Jeane Kirkpatrick gave me good advice before my move to New York.

Before leaving for New York, I consulted with my colleague at Georgetown, Jeane Kirkpatrick, who had been UN ambassador when Ronald Reagan was president. Kirkpatrick gave me one piece of advice: “Lose the professor clothes.” Until then, I had been a student, mother, government staffer, and teacher; this was to be my first prolonged experience in the limelight. I spent time trying on outfits in various Washington boutiques; soon I also confirmed what no one has ever doubted: New York offers boundless opportunities to shop. As a friend from the Big Apple told me, “The only real difference between a human being and other mammals is our ability to accessorize.”

JAMES ESTRIN/THE NEW YORK TIMES/REDUX

This pin was made from fragments of the Berlin Wall in 1989, the year the Wall was brought down. Berlin Wall, Gisela Geiger.

BPA, FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY

Surrounded by men at a meeting of the Group of Eight (G-8) Foreign Ministers. In the pin below, which represents the G-8, gender is not an issue.

I had expected my initial Security Council meeting to be in the huge room with the horseshoe table that is frequently seen on television, but that chamber is generally reserved for formal sessions. The space used for routine meetings—where much of the real work is done—was no bigger than the college seminar rooms I had just left. The similarity reminded me of what I had frequently told my female students: Do not be afraid to interrupt. A woman usually prefers to size up a situation before speaking, but for America’s UN ambassador, silence was not an option. So I squeezed my way into the cramped space, sat down, and, when the opportunity arose, plunged in.

BPA, FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY

G-8 pin, designer unknown.

From that day forward, I attracted attention because I represented the United States and was the only woman on the Council. With so many eyes on me, I didn’t want to worry about my appearance. This prompted me to pay added heed to how I looked and gradually to acquire new pins to make my clothes more interesting. Because every activity at the United Nations has a political aspect, one of my signature themes was Americana.

New York’s famed Pier Antiques Show is held periodically on the far West Side of midtown, in a sprawling building overlooking the Hudson River. Collectors and dealers from around the world are on hand, and whenever I could arrange my schedule, so was I. For seekers of high-quality costume jewelry, this was the equivalent of the Promised Land. Amid the crowd of shoppers, I moved from booth to booth, looking, touching, inquiring about prices, and—as one quickly learns to do in New York—using my elbows. One year, after surveying my options, I selected an eagle brooch manufactured by the distinguished American firm Trifari; it was enameled in red, white, and blue and set with rhinestones. Nearby, I came across an Uncle Sam’s hat, also by Trifari, in a similar style. Both were made of enameled metal, and both dated from the 1940s. Either seemed suitable for America’s UN ambassador, but I found the best effect came when I wore the two together, with the hat tilted at a rakish angle, seemingly atop the eagle’s head.

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

Sailor, Monet.

U.S. DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE

Overseas, accompanied by officers from the U.S. Air Force.

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