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By Root 688 0

1 inch with cold salted water in a large saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes; do not overcook. Drain well.

3 Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the tuna and sear on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side, depending on how rare you like your tuna. Remove the tuna from the pan and keep warm.

4 Add the vinaigrette to the skillet and bring to a boil, stirring to scrape up any browned bits. Add the potatoes to the skillet and gently toss to coat.

5 Spoon the potatoes with the vinaigrette onto serving plates and top with the tuna. Spoon a little vinaigrette over the tuna and garnish with capers and/or caperberries. Serve at once.

Kitchen Note: Don’t overcook tuna! It is best when seared on the outside and still pink on the inside, like a rare steak.

Winter Fish Tacos

Serves 6

Pickled red onions and thinly sliced cabbage are the traditional vegetable garnishes for fish tacos. In winter, I cook the fish in a skillet rather than on the grill, a concession to the season. In summer, I would probably add cilantro to the marinade and sour cream sauce, but the dish is just fine without it. Fresh corn tortillas are the preferred wrap, but flour wrappers do fine, especially where fresh corn tortillas aren’t available.

PICKLED RED ONION

1 small red onion, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

½ cup rice vinegar

Juice of 1 lime

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt

Dash of hot pepper sauce

FISH AND MARINADE

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lime juice

1½ pounds mahimahi or other white fish fillet

SOUR CREAM SAUCE

1 cup sour cream

½ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons lime juice

1 teaspoon (packed) finely grated lime zest

Pinch of salt

Dash of hot sauce

TORTILLAS AND GARNISHES

18 small flour or corn tortillas

2 cups shredded green or savoy cabbage

Salsa

1 To make the pickled onion, combine all the ingredients in a small nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, transfer to a serving bowl, and let cool.

2 To prepare the fish, combine the oil and lime juice in a large, shallow glass baking dish. Add the fish and turn to coat. Set aside and let marinate for 15 minutes.

3 To prepare the sauce, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and stir until well combined. Set aside.

4 Preheat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Transfer the fish from the marinade to the hot pan, skin-side down. Cook the fish for 4 minutes on the first side, flip, and drizzle with the marinade. Cook on the second side for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. Let rest for a few minutes, then flake the fish with a fork.

5 To warm the tortillas, stack them between damp paper towels and microwave for about 60 seconds.

6 Serve the warm tortillas, fish, pickled onions, sour cream sauce, cabbage, and salsa in separate bowls and allow the diners to assemble their own tacos.

Thai Coconut Curry with Shrimp

Serves 4

In Thai restaurants, you’ll find this dish made with summer vegetables — zucchini, green beans, snow peas, cherry tomatoes—but the surprising thing is how well root vegetables pair with the coconut curry sauce. Rutabagas are particularly recommended.

4 cups peeled and diced mixed root vegetables (carrots, celery root, golden beets, parsnips, rutabagas, salsify, and/or turnips) or winter squashes

1 tablespoon sunflower or canola oil

1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons Thai green curry paste

1 (11-ounce) can coconut milk

½ cup chicken broth or vegetable broth (pages 126–27)

1 stalk lemongrass, smashed with a knife

2 tablespoons lime juice

2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce Cayenne pepper

1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 (15-ounce) can baby corn, drained

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

1 tablespoon torn fresh basil leaves (optional)

hot cooked rice, for serving

1 lime, cut into wedges, for serving

1 Cover the vegetables with generously salted water in a medium