Recipes From the Root Cellar_ 270 Fresh Ways to Enjoy Winter Vegetables - Andrea Chesman [11]
Garlic Math
1 clove garlic = ½ teaspoon minced
Leeks
Leeks in most gardens will usually last well into December, making them a choice vegetable to grow. They offer the “green” of a fresh summer vegetable, suitable for serving as a side dish, but impart a delicate oniony flavor when cooked in a soup, stew, or casserole.
That the leek has been called “the poor man’s asparagus” comes as no surprise to anyone who has cooked with them. Basically, any recipe that uses asparagus can be made with leeks with surprisingly good results, though the flavor is quite different. The irony, however, is that leeks in the United States are neither particularly plentiful nor inexpensive; the nickname arose in France, where leeks are both.
Availability
Leeks are available year-round, but they are more plentiful in fall and winter.
Where the temperature remains above freezing, leeks may be harvested all through the winter, as in market gardens in Europe. If you grow your own leeks, you will find that they can be harvested any time up to a killing freeze.
Storage
Leeks do quite well in the garden, surviving frosts and even a few snowfalls, especially if protected with a good layer of mulch. Alternatively, you can dig them up and replant them in a box in the root cellar, where they will keep for several months. Dug up, they will keep in a perforated plastic bag in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.
How to Buy
Choose leeks that are straight, firm, and intact. The green part should not be dry, yellow, or blemished. The greater the proportion of white to green, the greater the amount of usable vegetable.
Preparation
Leeks often harbor quite a bit of dirt between their leaves. To prepare leeks, first cut away the tough dark green tops and peel off any tough outer leaves. (Save these for making broth.) Trim off the root end, leaving you with the white and tender pale green parts. Make a long vertical slit through the center of the leek or slice it in half vertically. Wash under cold running water, flipping through the leaves to expose the inner surfaces to the water. Pat dry.
If you are slicing the leeks anyway, you can cut them into slices before washing. To wash, immerse the slices in a bowl of water. Swish the slices, then let the water settle. The grit will all fall to the bottom of the bowl. Lift out the clean slices and drain well in a colander.
Cooking Ideas
Thin leeks are a delicacy; blanch them briefly, toss with a vinaigrette, and garnish with crumbled hard-cooked egg. Bigger, thicker leeks are more fibrous but still delicious and never strong in flavor. They are excellent in most soups and can usually replace onions with good results.
Cook sliced leeks slowly in butter and serve them as a bed for baked or sautéed fish. Or slice them and blanch in salted boiling water until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and transfer to a shallow baking dish and sprinkle them with freshly grated cheddar or Parmesan. Pop into a 300°F oven and bake for about 10 minutes, until the cheese melts.
Sauté sliced leeks in olive oil or with bacon and use to top pizza or pasta. Take advantage of leek’s affinity for potatoes and add to chowders, cream of potato soup, mashed potatoes, scalloped potatoes, and gratins.
Leeks Math
1 large leek = ½ to ¾ pound
1 pound leeks = 6 cups sliced
Onions
Despite the popularity of onion rings at hamburger joints and “blooming onions” at certain steakhouses, in most cases onions are used as flavoring rather than served as side dishes. Although there are many types of onions, onions grown specifically for storage are essential in the winter kitchen. They may have white, red, or yellow skins, but they can be used interchangeably. Storage onions are distinguished from green onions, sometimes called spring onions, which require refrigeration and are mild in flavor.
As a flavoring agent, the onion appears in many different types of dishes. In Cajun cooking,