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4 Add the rutabagas, carrots, and celery root to the pan and let simmer until the vegetables and chicken are tender, about 1 hour.

5 Use a slotted spoon to transfer the chicken and vegetables to a bowl; keep warm. Pour the pan juices into a tall, narrow container and let stand for 15 minutes. The fat will rise to the top; skim it off. Return the juices to the pan and bring to a boil. If the pan juices are too thin (the consistency of heavy cream is ideal), combine 2 tablespoons of the reserved seasoned flour with 2 tablespoons of water and stir to make a smooth paste. Add to the pan juices and let boil until thickened. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.

6 Return the chicken and vegetables to the pan and heat through. Serve hot, garnished with additional dill.

Kitchen Note: There are several different ways to remove the fat from pan drippings, including using a bulb baster to suck up the fats that rise to the surface. You can also use large flat kitchen spoons to skim along the top where the liquid fat is floating. My favorite utensil to use is a called a fat separator. It is a narrow, clear pitcher with a spout rising from the lower part of the pitcher. The fat rises to the top, but you pour from the bottom, leaving the fat behind.

Chicken in Red Wine With Root Vegetables

Serves 4–6

I make a variation of this dish throughout the year, varying the vegetables and the seasoning. The chicken, red wine, and tomatoes remain the same. Any red wine that you would care to sip with dinner works in the recipe. I recommend a medium-bodied red, such as a Pinot Noir or Merlot.

1 whole chicken or 3½ pounds chicken parts

½ cup all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons dried thyme

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, halved and thinly sliced

3 cups peeled and cubed mixed root vegetables (carrots, celery root, golden beets, parsnips, rutabaga, salsify, and/or turnips)

1½ cups diced tomatoes with juice, or 1 (15-ounce) can

1 cup dry red wine

1 whole garlic head, cloves separated and peeled

2 bay leaves

1 Cut the chicken into small serving pieces (cut the breast into quarters and the thighs into halves). Remove any fat, rinse, and pat dry. Combine the flour and 1 teaspoon of the thyme in a shallow bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Dredge the chicken pieces in the flour until well coated.

2 Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Lift the chicken pieces out of the flour, shaking off the excess, and add a single layer of chicken to the pan. Cook in batches; do not crowd the pan. Let the chicken brown, turning as needed, 5 to 10 minutes per batch. Adjust the temperature as needed to allow the chicken to brown but not scorch. (For the best presentation, make sure the chicken is well browned.) Transfer the browned chicken to a bowl or plate and keep warm.

3 In the oil remaining in the pan, sauté the onion and root vegetables over medium-high heat until the vegetables are a little softened, 3 to 5 minutes.

4 Return the chicken to the pan. Add the tomatoes, wine, garlic, bay leaves, and the remaining 1 teaspoon thyme. Cover and simmer, turning the chicken every 15 minutes or so, until the chicken is cooked through and the vegetables are tender, 45 to 60 minutes.

5 Remove the chicken and vegetables from the sauce with a slotted spoon; keep warm. Let the fat rise to the surface of the pan juices and remove by skimming. Remove the bay leaves. Return the chicken and vegetables to the pan. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve hot.

Kitchen Note: Leftovers, should there be any, can be made into soup by taking the chicken off the bone and adding chicken broth.

Freedom is the greatest fruit of self-sufficiency.

— Epicurus (341–270 B.C.)

Chicken Pot Pie With Sweet-Potato Biscuits

Serves 6

Chicken pot pie is a dish I make year-round, varying the vegetables as the seasons suggest. This is my fall/winter version, filled with yummy root vegetables. If you prefer, different root vegetables, such as parsnips and carrots, can be used, though I do think this