Recipes From the Root Cellar_ 270 Fresh Ways to Enjoy Winter Vegetables - Andrea Chesman [23]
Choosing and Using Winter Squashes
There are many different types of winter squashes, and which to grow or buy pretty much depends on your taste preferences. I prefer butternut squash above all others because it is the easiest to peel and therefore the most versatile in the kitchen. Delicata is also a favorite because the skin is edible.
Availability
Winter squash is generally available year-round, but the greatest variety is available in the late fall.
Storage
Winter squash should be harvested when fully mature (when its skin has hardened) and then cured in the sun or in a warm (55° to 65°F), dry place. Store in an unheated, dry space. A temperature of about 50°F is ideal. For short-term storage, store for up to 1 week in a paper bag in the refrigerator. If your squash is too large to use at one time, wrap the unused portion in plastic and store in the refrigerator for 4 to 5 days.
How to Buy
Look for firm, heavy squash with no soft spots. The stem should be intact.
Preparation
Butternut squash may be peeled. Others should be cut in half or into pieces. Scrape out and discard any seeds and fibers.
Cooking Ideas
Winter squash must be fully cooked; a fork inserted into the squash should meet no resistance. Baking is a good way to become acquainted with the flavor of squash. Place the halved squash in a baking dish, skin side up. Add about an inch of water. Bake at 350°F for 45 to 90 minutes, depending on the size of the squash, until fork-tender. Then serve pieces of squash with a pat of butter and sprinkling of brown sugar. Or scrape the flesh into a bowl and mash with butter. Slices of winter squash can be dipped in batter and deep-fried. Roasting cubes of oil-slicked winter squash at 425°F for 20 to 30 minutes is another excellent preparation.
Winter squash or pumpkin, flavored with sage, is a traditional filling for ravioli in Italy. Winter squash pairs well with cream sauces and can be used as a filling for a “white” lasagna (see page 254). Winter squash pairs well with brown sugar, maple syrup, honey, apples, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
Winter squashes and pumpkin are interchangeable in desserts, but a moist type, like butternut or Hubbard, is best.
Winter Squash Math
1 pound winter squash or pumpkin = 4 cups cubed = 3 cups diced = 1¾ cups puréed
Winter Squash Varieties
Acorn. Shaped like an acorn, this squash comes in three colors: green, orange, and white. The flesh is somewhat drier and stringier than other varieties, but it is a convenient size for stuffing and for serving in roasted wedges.
Banana. A prizewinner of a squash, these can grow up to 100 pounds with mild, sweet, very creamy pink flesh. Banana squash is more commonly found in the West than in the East. When it does show up in the supermarket, it is usually sold in pieces wrapped in plastic.
Buttercup. Fans of the buttercup claim that this squash is so sweet, it doesn’t need a sweet glaze. It is dark green and round in shape, with a pale green cap.
Butternut. The one winter squash that is easily peeled, butternut has moist, rich, smooth flesh. It makes a delicious purée, and its cubes and slices also can be grilled or roasted. Butternut squash can be shredded raw and used as a stand-in for shredded carrots in baked dishes. This is a very good, all-purpose squash that is usually available year-round.
Calabaza. Caribbean recipes calling for “pumpkin” are inevitably referring to the calabaza. It is rounded or pear-shaped and fairly large. Its mottled skin may be green, orange, amber, or cream. It is the one “winter squash” that is grown year-round in warm climates.
Delicata. Also known as sweet-potato squash, this squash is shaped like a long, ridged tube, with cream, orange, and green stripes. Delicata should be sliced in half lengthwise and seeded; it can then be cut into crescent-shaped pieces if you like. The peel is edible.
Hubbard. Hubbards present a grand challenge in the kitchen. They can weigh anywhere from 8