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2 Stir in the sugar. Season generously with salt and pepper. Let stand for about 30 minutes to allow the flavors to develop. Serve at room temperature.

Variation: Wilted Cabbage Salad, American Style

Substitute bacon for the pancetta. Substitute artisanal apple cider vinegar for the red wine vinegar.

You can’t get too much winter in the winter.

— Robert Frost (1874–1963)

Roasted Beet and Potato Salad

Serves 6–8

If you take care with arranging the vegetables, this salad will be as beautiful to behold as it is delicious to eat. The lemon aioli is a perfect topping for roasted vegetables.

4 medium beets

1 pound thin-skinned potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Lemon Aioli (page 181)

1 Preheat the oven to 425°F. Lightly oil a half sheet pan (preferred) or large shallow roasting pan.

2 Wrap the beets individually in aluminum foil and transfer to the oven to roast. Mound the potatoes on the half sheet pan. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Spread the potatoes on the prepared pan in a single layer and transfer to the oven.

3 Roast the potatoes for 35 to 40 minutes, turning occasionally for even cooking, until the potatoes are fork-tender and browned. Roast the beets for 50 to 60 minutes, until fork-tender. Remove the vegetables from the oven and let cool.

4 When the beets are cool enough to handle, peel and slice into thin rounds.

5 To serve, arrange the beets in a concentric circle on a serving platter or individual serving plates. Mound the potatoes in the center. Dollop the aioli on top and serve.

Kitchen Note: If you prefer, you can boil the beets instead of roasting them. Put the beets in a medium saucepan and cover with water. Cover the pot, bring to a boil, and boil gently until the beets are fork-tender, about 40 minutes. Drain, let cool, and peel. (Boiled beets must be peeled. Roasted beets do not require peeling.)

Wilted Brussels Sprouts Salad

Serves 4

Bacon is a famously good partner to Brussels sprouts. Here it adds great flavor to what is essentially a variation on the classic spinach salad. With so few ingredients, use only the best. If you can, choose high-quality, artisanal bacon, which is often thick-cut, and unfiltered artisanal apple cider vinegar.

4 ounces bacon, diced

1 large shallot, diced

1¼ pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved, or quartered if large

3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar, or more to taste Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups toasted croutons

1 Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and fry until the bacon starts to become crisp, about 3 minutes. Add the shallot, reduce the heat to medium, and sauté until the shallot is translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the Brussels sprouts and sauté until the sprouts are mostly tender, about 7 minutes.

2 Stir in the vinegar and cook until the Brussels sprouts are tender crisp, about 3 to 5 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper and more vinegar, if desired.

3 Transfer the salad to a serving bowl. Add the croutons and toss to mix. Serve warm.

Kitchen Note: To make your own croutons, cut enough stale bread into ¾-inch cubes to make about 3 cups. Heat 2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the bread and season with salt, pepper, and ½ teaspoon dried herbs (your choice). Fry until crisp and golden, stirring frequently, 20 to 30 minutes.

Brussels Sprouts and Citrus Salad

Serves 4–6

Roasting brings out the sweetness that lies dormant in Brussels sprouts. When the roasted sprouts are combined with oranges and a citrus dressing, they make a delicious winter salad. You can use any type of orange you have on hand, including navel or juice oranges, clementines, or tangerines.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1–1½ pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved, or quartered if large

1 shallot, diced

½ cup slivered almonds

1 large