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3 Add the Brussels sprouts to the boiling water and blanch until tender, 4 to 7 minutes; do not overcook. Drain well.

4 Add the Brussels sprouts to the skillet and cook over medium heat, gently tossing the sprouts until they have taken on the flavor of the bacon left in the pan, about 2 minutes. Season with pepper and serve hot.

Lemony Brussels Sprouts

Serves 4–6

Thinly slicing the Brussels sprouts produces a beautiful confetti mixture of colors from dark green to white. Properly cooked, the sprouts are light and crispy, but do watch your timing carefully. Overcooking, which can happen easily when the sprouts are in such small pieces, turns this dish drab olive green and cabbagey.

1½ pounds Brussels sprouts

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 shallot, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

3 tablespoons lemon juice

2 teaspoons sugar

¼ cup white wine

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Cut the stem ends from the Brussels sprouts and remove any blemished leaves. Halve each sprout lengthwise and very thinly slice each half or run through a food processor.

2 Heat the oil in a large skillet or wok over high heat. Stir in the Brussels sprouts, shallot, garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, and sugar. Sauté, stirring constantly, until the mixture is slightly limp and well blended.

3 Add the wine and sauté, stirring constantly, until the sprouts are brightly colored and lightly softened but still crunchy, 3 to 4 minutes.

4 Reduce the heat to low, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 1 minute longer. Serve hot.

Discovering the Apple in Apple Cider Vinegar

One taste is all you will need for proof that an artisanal, never-pasteurized cider vinegar tastes superior to supermarket cider vinegar, which tastes like, well, vinegar: sharp and sour. Artisanal, unpasteurized cider vinegar is redolent of apples. Its flavor and aroma is complex and fruity. Its ability to bring life to col-lard greens, kale, cabbage salads, and roasted vegetable salads is unparalleled.

I discovered the flavor difference when I was writing a piece about Vermont doctor DeForest Clinton Jarvis, who made a name for himself promoting apple cider vinegar mixed with honey as a cure for whatever ailed you: arthritis, infection, indigestion. He also claimed it would guard against osteoporosis, lower cholesterol, prevent cancer, maintain memory, and protect the mind from aging. Oh, and it also makes an excellent additive to dairy-cow feed.

While I am not interested in drinking the vinegar cure, I do swear by artisanal apple cider vinegar. I used to think old Vermonters were incomprehensible with their switchel and shrub (which is made from fresh berries, honey, apple cider vinegar, and water). Who drinks anything made with vinegar and calls it good? But now that I’ve tasted the real stuff, I wonder how I was ever duped into thinking that mass-produced supermarket vinegar bears any resemblance to the real thing.

Hot Slaw

Serves 6

When I was researching an article on artisanal apple cider vinegar, I spoke with vinegar maker Joanne Lidell, who shared this recipe with me. Lidell and her partner, Robert Machin, make Honest-to-Goodness Apple Cider Vinegar at Gingerbrook Farm in South Washington, Vermont. This slaw is terrific when fresh and hot, and surprisingly good left over and cold. Lidell recommended varying the flavor by adding a shredded carrot, chopped red bell pepper, or minced garlic. The caraway seeds are my idea.

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

½ head green or savoy cabbage, thinly sliced or shredded

¼ cup artisanal apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon caraway seeds

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cabbage and toss until well coated with oil. Add the vinegar and continue to toss until the cabbage is wilted, 5 to 8 minutes.

2 Stir in the caraway seeds and season generously with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Kitchen