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with a wooden spoon until fairly smooth and creamy. Mix in ¾ cup of the cheese, the bacon, and the shallot. Spoon the filling into the potato shells, mounding up the filling. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top.

5 Place the potatoes in a baking dish and bake until the potatoes are heated through and the cheese is melted, 15 to 20 minutes.

Variation: Vegetarian Twice-Baked Potatoes

Omit the bacon. Increase the number of shallots to two. If you have it on hand, mix 1 teaspoon pimenton (smoked paprika) into the potato filling.

Hot German Potato Salad with Sauerkraut

Serves 4–6

Although called a salad because it is dressed with oil and vinegar, German potato salad is usually served as a warm side dish. The sauerkraut adds a healthy dose of fiber and flavor.

1 cup sauerkraut, homemade (page 84) or store-bought (choose the refrigerated type, not the canned type), drained

2 pounds thin-skinned potatoes, scrubbed, halved, and cut into ¼-inch slices

4 ounces bacon, diced

1 shallot, minced

5 tablespoons apple cider vinegar, plus more to taste

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon brown sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Taste the sauerkraut and rinse with warm water if it is very salty. Drain well.

2 Cover the potatoes with salted water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Reserve ¼ cup of the cooking liquid, then drain. Transfer the potatoes to a large mixing bowl and keep warm.

3 Cook the bacon in a medium skillet over medium heat until brown and crisp, about 4 minutes. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and transfer to the bowl with the potatoes. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon grease.

4 Add the shallot to the skillet and cook over medium heat until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, oil, and brown sugar. Bring to a boil. Pour the mixture over the potatoes and toss to coat. Add the sauerkraut. Taste and season with more vinegar, salt, if needed (both the bacon and sauerkraut may be salty), and pepper. Add some or all of the reserved potato cooking water if the mixture seems dry (it may not need any). Serve immediately.

Spicy Sweet-Potato Oven Fries

Serves 4

The devil is in the details when it comes to making sweet-potato oven fries. The potatoes must be cut to a uniform thickness, or they will cook unevenly. The pan must not be too crowded, or the potatoes will steam and never brown. The pan must not be too empty, or the potatoes will burn. The touch of sugar in the recipe encourages browning and should not be omitted. The mix of spices is, however, just a suggestion and can be varied at will. The sweet-potato fries will not become as crisp as oven fries made with white potatoes, nor will they brown uniformly. But they are entirely delicious. The lemon aioli makes the perfect accompaniment.

4 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch sticks

¼ cup sunflower or canola oil

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon ground allspice or cinnamon

Coarse sea salt or kosher salt (optional)

Lemon Aioli (page 181)

1 Preheat the oven to 500°F, with the rack in the lower third of the oven. Generously oil a half sheet pan (preferred) or large shallow roasting pan.

2 Combine the oil, chili powder, sugar, onion powder, salt, cumin, black pepper, and allspice in a large bowl and mix well. Add the potatoes and toss to coat. Arrange the potatoes in a single layer on the prepared pan.

3 Roast in the lower third of the oven for 30 to 35 minutes, turning once or twice and shaking the pan for even cooking, until the potatoes are well colored. (The timing will depend on how closely spaced the potatoes are on the pan.)

4 Briefly drain the fries on paper towels to blot excess oil. Taste and sprinkle with coarse salt, if desired. Serve hot, with aioli on the side.

Kitchen Note: If you have the choice, Garnet is a good sweet potato