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2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, diced

2 cups long-grain rice

2 cups diced ham

1 pound collard greens, chopped into bite-size pieces (about 12 cups lightly packed; remove and discard tough stems)

3½ cups water

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Louisiana-style hot pepper sauce, such as Frank’s or Crystal

1 Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until the onion is translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and continue to sauté until the rice appears dry and toasted, 3 to 5 minutes longer. Stir in the ham, collard greens, and water. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer very gently until the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes.

2 Fluff the rice with a fork. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Replace the lid and set the rice aside for 5 minutes.

3 Fluff the rice with a fork and serve hot, passing the hot sauce at the table.

Kitchen Note: To “fluff” rice is to toss the rice with a fork so it is not compacted.

Leek Risotto

Serves 4–6

This outstanding risotto stands well on its own (serving four), or it makes a delicious base for chicken marsala or other gravy-rich dish (in which case it serves six).

5½ cups vegetable broth or chicken broth (pages 126–27)

½ cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2–3 leeks, trimmed and sliced

1½ cups Arborio rice

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Heat the broth and wine to a simmer in a medium saucepan.

2 Melt the butter in the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and sauté until wilted, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the rice and sauté until the rice appears toasted, 5 minutes.

3 Add 1 cup of the simmering broth to the rice. Stir until the liquid is mostly absorbed. Continue adding more broth, 1 cup at a time, cooking and stirring until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender and creamy. The total cooking time will be 18 to 35 minutes. You may not need all of the broth; taste the rice before adding the final cup.

4 Stir in the cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Risotto with Butternut squash

Serves 4

A delicious one-dish meal, in which the squash cooks alongside the rice. If you are making this with vegetable broth, be sure it doesn’t taste strongly of tomatoes or carrots (which many do). Water would be a better choice if your broth isn’t mildly flavored.

¾ cup white wine

5¼ cups water, neutral-tasting vegetable broth or chicken broth (pages 126–27), or a combination

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 shallots, finely diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon dried sage or thyme

1½ cups Arborio rice

1 teaspoon salt, plus more as needed

1 small to medium butternut squash, peeled and diced (about 4 cups)

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons butter

Freshly ground black pepper

1 Heat the wine and water to a simmer in a medium saucepan.

2 Heat the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic, and sage, and sauté until the shallot softens and appears transparent, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and salt and toss to coat with the oil. Sauté for 3 to 5 minutes, until the rice appears toasted. Stir in the squash.

3 Add ½ cup of the simmering wine mixture to the rice. Stir until the liquid is mostly absorbed. Continue adding more liquid, ½ cup at a time, cooking and stirring until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender and creamy. The total cooking time will be 18 to 35 minutes. You may not need all of the broth; taste the rice before adding the final cup.

4 Vigorously stir in the Parmesan and butter. Season with pepper and additional salt, if needed. Serve hot.

Kitchen Note: Make sure the butternut squash is diced small (¼- to 1/3-inch pieces) so that it is fully tender by the time the rice is cooked. It also looks more appealing this way.

Lemony Barley-Carrot Pilaf

Serves 6

The carrots retain their crunch when added at the end of the cooking process,