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Winter squashes are the forgotten vegetables. Almost no vegetable is as easy to grow or keep. With fertile soil, full sun and ample water, vines take off. And after plants become established, they’re so carefree, it’s easy to forget them until fall when their rediscovery makes the harvest that much sweeter.

— Andy Tomolonis

1 Preheat the oven to 425°F. Lightly oil a half sheet pan (preferred) or a large shallow roasting pan.

2 Mound the squash and leeks on the sheet pan. Drizzle the oil over them, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss gently to coat. Arrange in a shallow (preferably single) layer.

3 Roast the vegetables for 25 to 35 minutes, stirring or shaking the pan occasionally for even cooking, until lightly browned and tender.

4 Meanwhile, make the sauce. Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the flour to make a smooth paste. Cook, whisking constantly, for 1 minute. Add the milk and whisk until smooth. Bring to a slow boil and stir in the wine and sage. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.

5 When the vegetables are done, remove from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 350°F.

6 To assemble the lasagna, spread about ½ cup of the béchamel in a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Arrange three of the lasagna noodles on top. Pour about ½ cup of the sauce evenly over the noodles. Spread about one-third of the roasted vegetables evenly over the sauce. Sprinkle about one-quarter of the Parmesan on top. Repeat the layers two more times. Top with the remaining three lasagna noodles. Spread the remaining sauce on top and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan. Cover with foil.

7 Bake the lasagna for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for 10 to 15 minutes longer, until hot and bubbly.

8 Let the lasagna stand for 5 minutes before cutting into serving pieces. Serve hot or warm.

Caramelized Cabbage and Onion Tart

Serves 6

This simple tart is elegant and rustic at the same time. Because it is best at room temperature, it makes a perfect offering for a potluck or a buffet.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

½ head green or savoy cabbage, thinly sliced

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon dried thyme

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup lightly packed grated cheddar cheese (4 ounces)

1 (9-inch) prebaked single-crust pie shell (page 265)

2 eggs

1 cup milk

1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the cabbage and onion and sauté until the cabbage is completely wilted and the onion is golden, about 25 minutes. Add the thyme and season with salt and pepper.

2 Preheat the oven to 375°F.

3 Sprinkle half the cheese into the pie shell. Arrange a layer of the vegetables on top of the cheese.

4 Beat the eggs and milk together and pour over the vegetables. Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top.

5 Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until puffed and browned. Let stand to set for at least 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Winter-Vegetable Pie

Serves 4–6

My earliest explorations into vegetarian cooking were guided by Anna Thomas’s Vegetarian Epicure, first published in 1972. The book contained a recipe for “Russian Vegetable Pie,” which was the inspiration for this recipe.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 cups thinly sliced green or savoy cabbage

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 carrot, peeled and shredded

1 teaspoon dried dill

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pastry for a 9-inch double-crust pie (page 265)

1 cooked beet, thinly sliced

6 ounces soft fresh goat cheese (chèvre), at room temperature

1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the cabbage and onion and sauté until the cabbage is completely wilted and the onion is golden, about 25 minutes. Stir in the shredded carrot. Add the dill and season with salt and pepper.

2 Preheat the oven to 400°F.

3 Fit the bottom crust into a 10-inch pie pan. Arrange the beet slices over the crust in concentric circles. Crumble half the goat cheese over the beets. Spoon in the cabbage mixture and top with