Rediscovering America_ Exploring the Small Towns of Virginia & Maryland - Bill Burnham [102]
“There aren’t a whole lot of people coming through, so most businesses rely on a second income,” said Tweedie, who “escaped” Washington DC a dozen years ago. She and most other business owners prefer things like they are: the overhead is low; the nights are quiet and safe.
Onancock is a case study in how the Eastern Shore has developed in recent years. It is close to Hampton Roads and 190 miles from Washington DC, and draws couples and families from both regions on long weekend getaways. It reflects chic, urban tastes as much as that of traditional Shore life. That said, the charm still remains. “It’s a quick ride, and it’s like you’re coming to a completely different place,” said Tweedie.
Tourist season in Onancock runs May through October and that’s when, down at the town wharf, a visitor can book a fishing charter or ferry trip to Tangier Island. While waiting for departure, take a seat on the “liar’s bench,” where old men have been known to tell a tall tale or two about fish they’ve caught. On this same wharf is Hopkins & Bros. General Store, one of the oldest on the East Coast. While it’s maintained by the Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities, it’s still a working store and restaurant. (tel. 757-787-3100)
Onancock’s old-time fishing-village charm is mostly intact, even as restaurants, jam-packed antiques shops, fine art galleries and bed & breakfast inns have opened. Whether from-heres or come-heres, this is a town proud of its 300-year history. The 18th- and 19th-century homes are well-preserved, many with wrap-around porches and Victorian gingerbread, some in the Eastern Shore style of “big house, little house” with a colonnade and kitchen in between.
Attractions
The Eastern Shore of Virginia Historical Society takes good care of Kerr Place, a 200-year-old home built in the Federal style by John Kerr. Detailed finishing and vibrant colors reflect Kerr’s fine taste for his period. In the parlor stands a pianoforte, a musical instrument made in Vienna. On the second floor are interpretive exhibits, and on the first floor, a museum store with works by regional artists, crafters and authors. Outside are restored gardens. Open Tuesday-Saturday, 10 am-4 pm except holidays. Closed January and February. Admission is $4; children free. (tel. 757-787-8012, www.kerrplace.org)
The Capt. Eulice passenger ferry departs for Tangier Island daily Memorial Day Weekend to mid-October. The island is just a 12-mile trip one-way (five of it on Onancock Creek), but it’s a different world altogether. Cost is $20 per person round-trip; children six-12 ride for half-price, under six are free. No credit cards accepted. (Tangier-Onancock Cruises, tel. 757-891-2240, http://tangierisland-va.com/eulice)
For a different kind of trip, captain Mary Cruises will take you on birdwatching and sightseeing trips on her 16-foot boat. (tel. 757-787-3903)
Pam Barefoot has made her Blue Crab Bay Co. specialty food products famous, starting as a cottage industry whose products were seen in the Julia Roberts movie Sleeping with the Enemy. If you haven’t tried the Sting Ray Bloody Mary Mixer or Barnacles Snack Mix with the characteristic light blue crab labels, you’re in for a treat. Go to their Web site, or visit the gift shop, four miles south of Onley on Route 13 in the Accomack Airport Industrial Park. (tel. 800-221-2722, www.bluecrabbay.com)
Turner Sculpture on Route 13 in nearby Olney is famous nationwide for their wildlife sculptures in bronze and silver. Watch the foundry process and browse through the gallery. (tel. 757-787-2818, www.esva.net/~turner)
Dining
The friendly Argentinean namesake of Armando’s might be in the kitchen, cooking up his “New American” cuisine, or conversing with patrons on the patio. Specials like lobster ravioli, the professional service, homemade bread and fine wine list make for a memorable repast. Eat inside or on the garden patio. Thursday evenings feature