• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

In 2001, one of the last buildings on Cobb Island, a lifesaving station, was moved to the shore and restored by the Nature Conservancy. A century ago, the island was a magnet for the rich and famous, with a large resort hotel built by the Cobbs with their earnings from salvaging shipwrecks. Decoys carved by Nathan Cobb Jr. are exhibited in museums and worth thousands of dollars.

Assateague Island is best known for its wild Chincoteague ponies and its National Seashore, but until a 1962 storm wiped them out, there were about 50 dwellings here, a school and a store.

Severe storms, and perhaps more devastating, the gradually changing shoreline, doomed each of these communities and retreats. Locations of some buildings, and even lighthouses, are now under the sea, as the islands of sand shift continually. The lodge and buildings at Mockhorn are a notable exception, and probably represent the most intact historic buildings on any of the barrier islands.

Maryland’s Eastern Shore

Proximity to the major cities of Washington DC and Baltimore has led to Maryland’s portion of the Eastern Shore developing more rapidly than Virginia’s. The largest towns are lively and crowded beach and bay getaways, with top-notch shopping and sailing. Smaller towns still retain their fishing village charm, where you can watch crab and oyster boats bringing in their catch, then sample some of it at a down-home restaurant.

Getting Here

You can access the Eastern Shore two ways: over the Bay Bridge Tunnel from Annapolis, or from the north via routes 213 or 301 in Delaware.

There are several regional airports on the Eastern Shore: Cambridge-Dorchester Airport (tel. 410-228-4571), Easton Muni­ci­pal Airport (tel. 410-770-8055, www.talbgov.org), and Ocean City Municipal Airport (tel. 410-213-2471).

Regional Information

State Welcome Centers are located on US 301 near Centreville, and on US 13 near the Virginia border.

St. Michaels

Around Town

It’s obvious people come to St. Michaels to spend money. Boating and shopping seem to be the main distractions, and the quality of both are, quite simply, splendid. You could spend a couple of days browsing boutique after boutique housed in lovely, restored old houses from the 18th and 19th centuries. The main street, Talbot, is lined with well-cared-for Victorian and Colonial structures selling designer clothing, lots of antiques, and eclectic home furnishings.

I entered a cottage-like shop, the “At Home” store run by the adjacent Chesapeake Trading Co., and asked if I could just move in. They said, “Sure, if you pay the rent!” It was my dream house, with a light-filled, all-white, fully furnished bedroom, living and dining rooms, decorated in that “shabby chic” style of comfortable elegance. There is even a brick-paved courtyard where you can sit and have a coffee from the Chesapeake Trading Co. store, which also sells books, clothing and jewelry. (102 S. Talbot Street, tel. 410-745-9797, www.chesa­peake­tra­ding.com). A few doors down at Flamingo Flats (100 S. Talbot Street, tel. 410-745-2053 or 800-HOT-8841), famous for its gourmet hot sauces and tasting bar, a local author was signing copies of his books. Keith Walters retired from NASA to live in the tiny nearby community of Bozman, to fish and write – about fishing. In the cozy Town Hall Mall of shops (tel. 410-745-0063), Phil Heim was making custom jewelry of gold, silver and gemstones. He’ll even size you a bracelet while you wait.

Amidst all the Saturday shopping frenzy, a bride and groom emerged from Christ Episcopal Church, a horse and carriage waiting for them at the curb. A block away, Justine’s Ice Cream Parlor, on the corner of Talbot Street and Railroad Avenue, was busy with lickers coming and going – the door barely getting a chance to close. (101 Talbot Street, tel. 410-745-5416)

After the initial rush of shopper’s delight, St. Michaels’ retail offerings began to all look quite similar, and I wondered what else there was to do. A rumble from my stomach answered that question immediately.