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By Root 914 0

sailing fleet in North America. Between six and 10 skipjacks work out of Tilghman each winter. They’re among the last in the world still in operation, and their crews carry out a tradition passed down through generations. Hundreds of skipjacks once cruised the bay, taking in enormous numbers of oysters. Between 1890 and 1910 it’s estimated that a thousand skipjacks were built. Their large decks made them the oyster-dredging boat of choice, particularly since Maryland’s enactment in 1867 of a law restricting oyster-dredging to sail-powered vessels (a 1967 modification to the law allows the sailboat to be augmented by motorized “push” boats two days a week). Over-harvesting and two virulent oyster diseases all but decimated the Chesapeake oyster and the skipjack fleets by the last quarter of the 20th century.

But at least for now, you can still experience first hand the work of an oysterman; help draw up the sails and dredge up some oysters. A good day, they’ll tell you, is bringing in about 80 bushels (the limit it 150), working from sunrise to sunset, often in frigid temperatures, since the oyster season is November-March. To augment their income from oystering, the supply of which dwindles lower each year, several skipjacks take aboard the curious in the off-season, which happens to be the tourist on-season. They typically charge about $30 per person for a sightseeing cruise and oyster-dredging demonstration. They’ll be glad to dredge up some bi-valves to show how it’s done, and even open a few up for you.

To arrange a trip, contact captain Wade Murphy of the Rebecca T. Ruark, possibly the oldest skipjack on the bay, built in 1886 (tel. 410-886-2176, www.skipjack.org), or captain Ed Farley of the skipjack H.M. Krentz, one of the last skipjacks built, in 1955 (tel. 410-745-6080, www.oystercatcher.com). The Rebecca operates out of Dogwood Harbor, and the Krentz has started picking passengers up at the Crab Claw Restaurant in St. Michaels.

Dining

The Bay Hundred Restaurant is just before you cross the bridge to Tilghman. Dine outside or in, on seafood, steaks, and Cajun and Creole fare. (tel. 410-886-2126)

The Bridge Restaurant offers waterfront dining daily noon to 10 pm, and bar service until 1 am (6136 Tilghman Road, tel. 410-886-2330, www.bridge-restaurant.com)

Most of the dining establishments also have lodging, so look for them under Lodging, below.

Lodging

Just before crossing the bridge to Tilghman is Knapp’s Narrows Marina and Guest Quarters, which caters to boaters, with transient dockage, a laundry and fishing charters. There’s a restaurant, pool and cabana with observation deck. (tel. 410-886-2720, www.knapps­nar­rows­marina.com, $$)

Pet-friendly: Harrison’s Country Inn, Chesapeake House Restaurant and Sport Fishing Center has everything the fisherman needs, including a hearty breakfast served extra early so you can board your charter fishing boat by 7 am. When you return, dinner and a good night’s sleep await. Pets are welcome with a $15 charge. (21551 Chesapeake House Drive, tel. 410-886-2121, 410-886-2109, www.ches­a­peakehouse.com, $$)

Lazy Jack Inn B&B has Jacuzzis and fireplaces in an 1855 waterfront home with elegant rooms decorated with original artwork. The innkeeper, Captain Mike Richards, can arrange for a champagne sunset sail or lighthouse tour on The Lady Patty, his 1931 yacht. (tel. 410-886-2215, 800-690-5080, www.lazyjackinn.com, $$$)

Pet-friendly: Tilghman Island Inn is a 20-room waterfront resort with gardens, views of the marsh and Chesapeake Bay sunsets. There’s a spa where you can get a massage or herbal bath, and gourmet dining in the Bay Watch Room or the Gallery Dining Room, which showcases the work of regional artists. There’s a pool, transient marina, charter fishing and boat rentals. (Coopertown Road, 800-866-2141, www.tilghman­island­inn.com, $$$)

Black Walnut Point Bed & Breakfast Inn is on a private peninsula formed by the Choptank River and the Chesapeake Bay, with expansive views of both. For activity there’s a pool, spa, tennis, fishing, boating, and hiking