Rediscovering America_ Exploring the Small Towns of Virginia & Maryland - Bill Burnham [117]
Access to Smith Island is by boat only. One way to get there is aboard the Capt. Tyler, a 65-foot modern sightseeing cruiser (tel. 410-425-2771, www.smithislandcruises.com). Trips leave daily at 12:30 pm, returning around 5 pm. It’s about an hour’s cruise each way, leaving you an afternoon to explore the village of Ewell, have lunch at the Bayside Inn, and visit the Smith Island Center, a heritage museum and visitor center. You can rent a golf cart or bicycle to explore further.
The northern half of the island is encompassed by the Martin National Wildlife Area. While the refuge is closed to the public to protect nesting habitats, there is a visitor center with exhibits. The island, settled in 1657, is inhabited by about 400 people, most of them descendants of original settlers. Most still derive their livelihood from the bay, and find no need for a town government, mayor or local taxes. Everyone contributes to maintaining community property, and if a problem arises, they call a meeting of citizens – perhaps democracy in its truest form. If you choose to stay overnight, there are a couple of bed & breakfasts: the Ewell Tide Inn (tel. 410-425-2141, 888-699-2141, www.smithisland.net) and Inn of Silent Music (tel. 410-425-3541, www.innofsilentmusic.com). The Smith Island Center (tel. 410-425-3351) is open daily, May-October, noon to 4 pm.
Tangier Island is in Virginia waters, but it’s only a 1¼-hour cruise from Crisfield aboard the Capt. Steven Thomas. In this small fishing community you’ll find a way of life that hasn’t changed much in centuries, a handful of shops and restaurants (see the Tangier Island section in the Virginia’s Eastern Shore chapter). Cruises depart daily mid-May through October at 12:30 pm, returning at 5:15 pm. (tel. 410-968-2338)
Recreation
Eco-Tours, given by an experienced waterman aboard the Chesapeake Bay workboat Learn-it, depart daily, at 10 am and 1:30 pm, from the Captains’ Galley Restaurant. (tel. 410-968-9870)
Rent kayaks and explore on your own. Tangier Sound Outfitters offers lessons, rentals, shuttle services, and gear for paddle-in camping. (27582 Farm Market Road, Marion, tel. 410-968-1803)
Janes Island State Park is more than 3,000 acres of beach, wetland and loblolly pine forests. There’s camping, cabins and a conference center, as well as fishing, boat and kayak rentals, and plenty of wildlife viewing. (tel. 410-968-1565, www.dnr.state.md.us)
Dining
Captain’s Galley and gift shop sits perched at the very edge of the water, serving seafood indoors and out (Main Street & City Dock, tel. 410-968-3313). Watermen’s Inn is owned by two culinary arts graduates; one is an expert in pastries, so the dessert buffet is outstanding. (901 W. Main Street, tel. 410-968-2119)
Side Street Seafood Market is just that, where you can watch oyster-shuckers during season (October-March), and soft-shell crabs being cleaned and packaged the rest of the year. Next door, at J.C.W. Taxes, you can see crab-pickers in action May-October. Get fresh seafood to go or sample it right here in the restaurant upstairs, with outdoor dining on picnic tables on the deck. (204 S. Tenth Street, tel. 410-968-2442, www.crisfield.com/sidestreet)
Peppy’s, an Italian and seafood restaurant, is also up high to afford water views (821 W. Main Street, tel. 410-968-2727). The Circle Inn caters to families and fishermen, opening at 5 am for breakfast. (4012 Crisfield Highway, tel. 410-968-1969)
The Iguana Café shares a cottage with Tropical Chesapeake, an island-themed gift shop (712 Broadway, tel. 410-968-3622), and if you want a break from all the seafood, Oriental Jade serves Chinese food. (103 N. 4th & Pine streets, tel. 410-968-3888)
Top off lunch or dinner with a walk along the City Dock and a cool treat on the Ice Cream Gallery’s waterfront deck. (tel. 410-968-0809)
Lodging
Bea’s B&B was built in 1909 by the founder of the Handy Soft Shell Crab