Rediscovering America_ Exploring the Small Towns of Virginia & Maryland - Bill Burnham [133]
Work is currently underway to “re-water” the last two miles of the canal so visitors can take boat rides and experience what canal travel was all about. You can see and board a replica of a canal boat, “The Cumberland,” at the Crescent Lawn Festival Grounds, a short walk from the Railway Station; it’s open for tours on weekends, 12:30-4:30 pm, May-October.
Either before or after your train ride take some time to explore downtown Cumberland. There are several great places to stroll to, just steps away from the Railway Station.
Head to Washington Street, and turn left (west) across the tracks to explore the Washington Street Historic District on the Fort Cumberland Trail. While there’s nothing really left of the 1755 fort, very detailed and informative markers along its boat-shaped outline where now several blocks of large homes and a massive historic stone church now stand. The only building remaining that was associated with the fort is on Green Street. George Washington’s Headquarters is a log cabin he used when he was a young aide to Gen. Braddock.
Beneath The Emmanuel Episcopal Church are all that remains of the fort itself: its cellars, magazines and earthworks. The British Army used the fort during the French and Indian wars and it was commanded by George Washington for a number of years. The 1851 Gothic Revival towering stone church has an illustrious history itself. Louis Comfort Tiffany undertook its renovation in the early 20th century, creating three large stained-glass windows, carving the High Altar and designing the cross and candelabra. The congregation is still very active, with Sunday and weekday services (tel. 301-777-3364).
Next you’ll pass the courthouse with its gargoyles, and large graceful homes with wrap-around porches. Stop mid-way on your self-guided tour at the Gordon-Roberts Historic House Museum where tea is served Victorian style by a costumed docent as period music plays. The 1867 home was built for Josiah Hance Gordon, president of the C&O Canal. Open for tours and tea June through October: Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm; last tour at 4 pm. (218 Washington Street, tel. 301-777-8678, www.historyhouse.allconet.org).
Head back down Washington Street, back across the tracks, and the road changes names, becoming Baltimore Street, a three-block-long brick-paved pedestrian mall. Classical music is piped through kiosks and in the center are fountains, a waterfall and a stage for outdoor events. Grab a hot dog at Curtis’ Famous Coney Island (“Famous Weiners since 1918), or sit at an outdoor café table in front of one of several restaurants. Large department stores of the last century now house art galleries and trendy restaurants. Catch a film or play at The New Embassy Theatre, a 1931 Art Deco theater. (49 Baltimore Street, tel. 877-722-4692)
Don’t forget to look up while peering in all the shop windows. Authentic examples of 19th and early 20th-century architecture house these ground floor shops and restaurants. On Thursdays and Saturdays the street is lined with fresh produce, flowers and baked goods for the Farmer’s Market, 10 am-2 pm, June through mid-October. (tel. 301-738-1093)
Attractions
Western Maryland Scenic Railroad: Reservations are recommended and, during October, are required. Recent ticket prices were $19 adults, $10 children, $17 seniors. First Class (includes lunch): $35 adult, $20 children, $33 seniors. Departures are at 11:30 am from Cumberland, returning around