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Rediscovering America_ Exploring the Small Towns of Virginia & Maryland - Bill Burnham [137]

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Bird carver Gary Yoder works in the oldest building, the Markley House, which was built in 1775 in Pennsylvania and moved to Spruce Forest Village in 1985. After 30 years of carving, Gary has built up his skill to the point where it’s hard to tell his intricately carved wooden feathers from the real thing. Nearly all his work is done for custom orders, fetching between $2,000 and $10,000 per bird. He doesn’t sell anything here in his studio, but it’s a great opportunity to see one of the country’s master bird carvers at work.

If it’s summer, a weekend or a holiday, you’ll likely see weaver Ann Jones working at the loom in the Glotfelty House, which was constructed in 1776 near Pocahontas, Pennsylvania The rest of the year she’s a public school teacher. For 27 years she’s done her weaving here, making beautifully textured scarves, throws, pillows and other items. She searches the globe (via mail-order) for tantalizing yarns made of silk, cashmere, wool, interesting blends and plain old cotton and linen.

In the Winterburg House, built in 1820 as a stagecoach stop for the National Pike in Grantsville, you can see a potter at work. The aroma of fragrant herbs and oils greets you at the walkway to Fernwood Soap, where all natural and botanical soaps and lotions are made. On cold days there’s a campfire outside with benches to sit and warm yourself.

As the sign at the entrance says: “We invite you to cross over to an old-time world of folkways, festivals, crafts and fine foods.” There’s also an historic gristmill on the property. Altogether, it’s quite a little complex of preserved Maryland history.

The Spruce Forest Artisan Village is just east of downtown Grantsville. It’s free of charge, open Monday-Saturday, 10 am-5 pm, May through October. But even in the off-season, you might find a couple of artisans at work as some of them work in their wood-heated studio cabins year-round. (tel. 301-895-3332, www.spruceforest.org)

Dining


After exploring Spruce Forest Artisan Village, walk over to the Penn Alps Restaurant, where you can dine on country food inside. If it’s a nice day, order “to go” and walk down to picnic tables set under tall, shady trees along the Casselman River. Your backdrop is the 1813 stone-arch Casselman Bridge, over which the National Pike’s original route crossed. The Penn Alps Restaurant has been enlarged six times over the years, but the core of it is the last log hospitality house on the National Pike still serving travelers. (125 Casselman Road, tel. 301-895-5985, www.pennalps.com)

Hilltop Inn Restaurant & Lounge has daily specials of steak, seafood and Italian fare with a Friday fish fry and Saturday buffet. (12336 National Pike, tel. 301-895-5168)

Eastern Shore crabs in western Maryland? They’re caught fresh daily in the rivers around St. Michaels and Hooper Island and rushed by truck to Hen House Inc., four miles east of Grantsville on the National Pike. (tel. 301-689-5001)

See also the Casselman Inn and Holiday Inn under Lodging, below.

Lodging


The Casselman Inn was built in 1824 to serve travelers on the National Road. You can stay in one of the rooms in the rustic hotel, or in the modern motor inn behind it. The restaurant in the first floor of the hotel has two dining rooms with fireplaces, and a sitting room filled with rockers. Your nose will lead you to the basement where there’s a bakery with goods for sale as well as an antiques shop. There’s a Sunday morning buffet, all you can eat for under $5. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday. (Main Street, tel. 301-895-5055, $)

Adjacent to the Penn Alps, the Elliott House Victorian Inn has a storybook entrance through a pink archway into the restored 1870 home. It has four rooms in the main house and three river view cottages with private decks. All have private baths. Fly-fish for trout right from the backyard, or arrange for a massage in your room. (146 Casselman Road, tel. 800-272-4090, www.elliotthouse.com, $$)

Pet-friendly: The Holiday Inn is newly renovated, kids stay free and so do pets (reserved

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