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Oh, Shenandoah

Trip Journal: Ten days in the Shenandoah Valley

A serious tour of the Shenandoah Valley can only begin by hopping off busy I-81 and driving local roads. Virginia’s mountain scenery frames both long, straight highways and narrow mountain roads. Sheep and cows graze in neatly fenced farms and pastures, all with the backdrop of the Blue Ridge or Massanutten mountains.

Shenandoah is an outdoor playground with nearly inexhaustible options for fishermen, hikers, paddlers and spelunkers. Down the center of the Valley, small towns hum with local trade and out-of-towners in search of a festival, a Civil War battlefield, antiques or local art. Chain hotels are convenient to the interstate, but more cozy quarters can be had in fine period homes renovated into bed & breakfasts. Restaurants serve up tasty local dishes and show a flair for the haute cuisine. And for those who like their recreation in one spot, Shenandoah’s four-season resorts – Bryce, Massanutten, Wintergreen and the Homestead – offer golfing, skiing and much more. For complete information, visit www.shenandoah.org, www.svta.org, or call tel. 877-VISIT-SV.

Day One: Travel

The Blue Ridge Parkway spans 470 miles of mountaintop from Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park to Tennessee’s Great Smoky Mountains. From Roanoke north to Buena Vista, it passes the Peaks of Otter, a mountain so steep Virginia settlers long considered it the state’s highest peak. That is, until geologists actually measured Mount Rogers and declared that 5,791-foot peak tallest.

Pull into Lexington at the end of the day. Llewellyn Lodge specializes in outdoor adventure. Innkeepers Ellen and John Roberts will hook you up with the best places to hike, fish, bike, horseback ride and even golf. (tel. 800-882-1145, www.LLodge.com, $)

Day Two: Lexington

For breakfast, Ellen serves up blue-ribbon omelets, waffles smothered in Virginia Maple Syrup, and John’s Killer Hot Chocolate. All of it, great fuel for a busy day outdoors. John leads guided fly-fishing trips on Buffalo Creek, just eight minutes away. Beginners get personal “frustration-free” instruction in the fine art of casting. John brings lunch along.

Dinner can be early at The Palms, a former ice cream parlor that’s hosted celebs like Jodi Foster and Oliver North. The Shenandoah Valley Salad is topped with chicken, bacon and bleu cheese.

Bring along a sweater for an evening at the Theater at Lime Kiln. Plays run Tuesday through Saturday at 8 pm. The seasons typically features plays set in Virginia, with some Shakespeare thrown in. An eclectic music lineup on Sundays could feature Celtic alt-rockers Carbon Leaf or bluegrass legend Ralph Stanley. (tel. 540-463-3074, www.the­ateratlimekiln.com)

Day three: Travel

Before saying farewell to the Llewellyn Lodge, Pick up John’s “Top 20 Hikes & Trail Guide,” then head for Goshen Pass and an easy three-mile hike. When rhododendron blooms in June, this mountain gorge is one of the prettiest spots in Virginia. VMI professor Matthew Fon­taine Maury thought so. Back in 1873 his dying wish was that his body be carried through the pass by VMI cadets, which they did.

Have a picnic lunch at the wayside park at Goshen Pass, then head on to Raphine for a tour and tasting at Rockbridge Vineyard (tel. 888-511-wine) located in a renovated dairy.

Arrive in Staunton, the Shenandoah Valley’s oldest city, in time to check in at a bed & breakfast or inn within walking distance of the historic downtown. Two inns worth noting are the five restored homes of the Frederick House, and the Victorian Belle Grae Inn.

Day Four: Staunton

It’s a full day of country music at the Statler Brothers Complex (tel. 540-885-7297), pioneer history at The Frontier Culture Museum’s re-created villages (tel. 540-332-7850), and browsing among the 60-plus shops in Staunton. Good luck choosing a place for lunch – downtown has more than 20 restaurants.

Day Five: Shenandoah National Park

From Staunton, head east through