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The Cameleer was one of the first of the new, boutique-type shops to open 10 years ago, at the beginning of the revitalization. After spending three years in Australia, Sue Bernhardt returned home to Virginia to open up shop selling Aboriginal art and handcrafts (tel. 540-825-8073). The store has expanded to represent items from 50 countries and occupy three buildings on the corner of Main and Davis (for a good idea of what the corner looked nearly 100 years ago, see the cover of the booklet In & Around Culpeper, available in the visitor center). “Culpeper is a great place to live and do business. The merchants really work together,” Bernhardt says. A strong sign of the confidence entrepreneurs hold for Culpeper is the 2002 opening of a four-screen theater right in the heart of downtown. A bold statement, when most other small-town theaters in the country have closed due to the opening of mall cinema complexes outside of town.

Another historic landmark was saved when Libba and Bo Chase purchased the old Lord Culpeper Hotel on South Main Street several years ago. After they moved in, The Chases first reopened the restaurant, and then the 20 guest rooms as each was renovated. In the bargain they believe they also got a couple of spirits – that of Jack Eggborn, former mayor and proprietor of the hotel, and his dog, Happy. In addition to being a great host known for lavish parties, Eggborn was also a prankster, and apparently continues to be. The current proprietors say they’ve seen dishes fall for no reason, lights and water coming on in empty rooms, and the sound of golf balls bouncing under tables (Jack was also a golfer, apparently).

To explore more of Culpeper’s past, visit the Museum of Culpeper History, a state-of-the-art museum that traces local history back to the dinosaurs, through Native Americans, Colonial settlers, the Revolution and the Civil War. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm. Also open on Sundays 12:30-4 p.m May through October. Admission is a $3 donation for those 18 and older. (803 S. Main Street, tel. 540-829-1749, www.culpepermuseum.com)

INSIDER’S TIP: On the first and third Saturdays of each month from June through October, Virginia Morton gives a Civil War Walking Tour of Culpeper. She’s even written a book on the subject, called Walking through Culpeper, available at the Museum of Culpeper History. Tours start at 10:30 am at the Visitors Center. $8 adults; children free. Call for the schedule (tel. 888-285-7373), or to arrange a special group tour (tel. 540-825-9147).

Recreation

For a break from shopping, keep heading west on Davis Street, take a wooden staircase down, and cross the road to Yowell Meadow Park. There’s a beautiful pond with a fountain and ducks, walking trails, playing fields, and picnic tables.

Dining

For a quick bite downtown, there’s Baby Jim’s Snack Bar, an old-fashioned outdoor burger and milkshake joint (701 N. Main Street, tel. 540-825-9212), the 1950s luncheonette and soda fountain at Gayheart’s Drugstore (101 E. Davis Street, tel. 540-825-3600), and a couple of coffee houses.

For sit-down dining, It’s About Thyme Café has sidewalk tables in addition to indoor dining of “European Country Cuisine.” Open for lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner Tuesday-Saturday. tel. 540-825-4264)

The gourmet dinner selections at Hazel River Inn include quail, veal, lamb, duck, Virginia bison and seafood. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Tuesdays. (195 E. Davis Street, tel. 540-825-7148, www.ha­zelriv­erinn.com)

Café Fairfax is a coffee bar with a full menu for breakfast, lunch, dinner and cocktails. There’s weekend entertainment and outdoor seating. (219 E. Davis Street, tel. 540-829-8400)

Rex’s Sports Bar and Grill serves up ribs, hot wings, nachos and live music. Open daily for lunch, dinner and late night. (110 E. Davis, tel. 540-825-3955)

The Lord Culpeper Restaurant & Hotel serves lunch and dinner daily, American fare with a Caribbean flair. There’s also the 401 Club Night Spot for late night entertainment. (401