Rediscovering America_ Exploring the Small Towns of Virginia & Maryland - Bill Burnham [68]
The piedmont countryside is dissected by stone walls and split rail fence. Past gated entrances, long driveways lead to estates such as Westview, where the Piedmont Foxhounds, the nation’s first hunt club, hold their traditional first meeting of the year. This Federal-style home boasts a provenance of ownership that fought for the “right” side in both the Revolutionary War (American) and Civil War (Confederate.)
As the epicenter for Virginia’s hunt country, Middleburg holds a rather exclusive status. It serves the scions of industry and sport – particularly horse racing – who reside in neo-plantation estates out in the surrounding countryside. In this world of polo matches and wine tastings, Middleburg is where they dine and shop. As such, amenities are of high quality and priced accordingly. Mercedes and Jaguars line the streets in front of art galleries and equestrian-themed boutiques.
Around Town
Middleburg is a lovely village of just 600 people, with more than 160 buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Washington Street and a surrounding six-block area make for great window shopping. Irish crystal, cigars, designer clothing at the Finicky Filly, or gourmet kitchen supplies, antiques, guns, sporting art and clothing are just a sample of what can be bought. At Christmas, stores are decorated to the nines for a holiday season that begins with a parade of hounds and equestrians in full attire.
Middleburg is also home to the second-oldest tavern in America (although the sign out front says the “oldest original Inn”). Originally called Mr. Chinn’s Ordinary, The Red Fox Inn has been hosting travelers since 1728, including a young George Washington on a surveying trip, and John F. Kennedy who occasionally held press conferences here. (Jackie attended hunt breakfasts at Westview.) During the Civil War, John Mosby ran his raids from Middleburg and held meetings at the same yellow fieldstone tavern. Thus Middleburg earned its other reputation, as the center of the area that became known as “Mosby’s Confederacy.”
One of the newest buildings in town is the Middleburg National Sporting Library, housed in a whitewashed brick building built to resemble a 19th-century carriage house. A life-sized bronze statue of a horse sets in the center of a circular driveway, commissioned as a memorial to the 1.5 million horses and mules killed or wounded in the Civil War. Inside, there’s 15,000 square feet of space housing some of the world’s most prized volumes on turf and field sports, from 16th century books on horse care, to a handwritten manuscript of Theodore Roosevelt’s “Riding to the Hounds on Long Island.” Visitors can sit and peruse books from the 15,000-item collection in one of two alcoves furnished with comfy chairs and sofas. Open Monday 1-4 pm, Tuesday-Friday 10 am-4 pm and Saturday by appointment (102 The Plains Road, tel. 540-687-6542, www.nsl.org).
Loudoun County has several vineyards; two just outside Middleburg. Piedmont Vineyards and Winery, established in 1973, is Virginia’s oldest Chardonnay producer, also acclaimed for its Semillon and Cabernet Sauvignon (2546D Halfway Road, off Route 626 south of Middleburg, tel. 540-687-5528, www.piedmontwines.com). Swedenburg Estate Vineyard is one mile east of Middleburg off US Route 50 on a circa-1762 farm. Open daily 10 am-4 pm. (tel. 540-687-5219).
Outdoors
The Wankopin Community Trail winds for three miles through a 500-acre plat in the upper Wankopin Creek Watershed. The trailhead is at Hill School at 180 S. Madison Street, Middleburg (tel. 540-687-5897).
Dining
The Red Fox Inn offers fine dining in seven Colonial dining rooms – Windsor chairs, low ceilings of exposed wood beams, plenty of fireplaces. Proper attire is required. The extensive wine cellar was added in 1812. (2 East Washington Street, tel. 800-223-1728, www.redfox.com)
For completely different experience, pop in a few doors down to Scruffy’s Ice Cream Parlor and Thrift Store. The proceeds go to the Middleburg Humane Foundation. The sign on the door reads: “Fur coats