Rediscovering America_ Exploring the Small Towns of Virginia & Maryland - Bill Burnham [70]
Around Town
Occoquan merchants carry no illusions: Theirs is a weekend town for day-trippers who find it convenient to I-95 (Exit 160), people who are more interested in fine arts and crafts, jewelry or antiques than the mass-produced goods available, say, at nearby Potomac Mills. Occoquan’s shops and galleries – nearly 100 at last count – occupy original 18th- and 19th-century buildings that have survived both fire (which destroyed much of the town in 1916) and a hurricane (Agnes, in 1972).
Riverwalk, with its Victorian stylings, is not one of those historic buildings. But it catches a visitor’s eye first, and there is much to explore in the small shops. Eventually, the eye wanders up Mill Street to the crooked buildings and colorful signboards. Behind them, nearly obstructed, flows the Occoquan River. Harbor River Cruises (see below) conducts daily boat rides, while guests in the waterfront restaurants enjoy seafood, or the atmosphere of a haunted inn or Victorian tea room.
Outside its historic district, Occoquan is surrounded by condominiums, starter homes and townhouses. Where there is an empty field or a bit of woods, there’s likely to be a sign declaring what new housing development is coming. It is seeing this, as you leave Occoquan, that you truly appreciate what a good thing it is this bit of the past has been preserved, so folks can see what small towns in Northern Virginia used to look like.
Attractions
The town had the nation’s first automated grist mill and one of the first cotton mills in Virginia. The only remaining building of the mill and foundry complex is operated as the Mill House Museum, open daily, 11 am-4 pm, with free admission. (413 Mill Street, tel. 703-491-7525)
Ebenezer Baptist Church, the first black church in the area, was founded by a former slave – the Reverend Henry Bailey – in 1883. His descendants are still active in the congregation. (209 Washington Street, tel. 703-494-9923)
Harbor River Cruises offers a 40-minute sightseeing trip. Catch the boat dockside at 201 Mill Street, behind Riverwalk; the cost is $11 for adults and $8 for children. (tel. 703-385-9433)
Shopping
Ye Olde Dominion Wine Shoppe carries Virginia wines exclusively and offers daily tastings, year-round. (408 Mill Street, tel. 703-494-1622, www.ecounties.net/yeolde)
For 21st-century shopping, just south on I-95 is the Potomac Mills Outlet Mall, a mile-long array of designer outlet and off-price retail stores. It also has an indoor/outdoor in-line skating complex, a 20-screen cinema and food court. (tel. 800-VA-MILLS)
Outdoors
You’re as apt to see wildlife as you are another person in Prince William National Forest Park. Small waterfalls make for scenic viewing along South Branch and North Branch Quantico River. Between them lie a mix of open fields and eastern hardwood forests. There are 35 miles of trails spread over 17,000 acres, a scenic driving loop, and camping either in a tent, RV or cabin. Located on State Route 619 near Triangle. (tel. 703-221-7181)
Dining
The Garden Kitchen is a café and bakery serving specialty sandwiches and homemade desserts. Dine inside in one of the Colonial dining rooms or out in the terraced gardens. (404 Mill Street, tel. 703-494-2848, www.gardenkitchen.com)
The Occoquan Inn and Virginia Grille are fine dining and casual counterparts under the same roof. The central part of the building is the original 1810 residence. Legend has it that a Dogue Indian sometimes haunts the upstairs ladies “necessary.” The story goes that the Indian, one of the last remaining in the town, was having a relationship with the innkeeper’s wife. The jealous husband caught him coming down the stairs and shot him. (301 Mill Street, tel. 703-491-1888, www.occoquaninn.com)
Sea Sea & Company is a large seafood restaurant on the water next to Riverwalk, with deck dining and a nautical theme. (201 Mill Street,