Rediscovering America_ Exploring the Small Towns of Virginia & Maryland - Bill Burnham [78]
Made wealthy by the harvest, the menhaden captains and plant owners built spectacular Victorian mansions along Main Street. Now known as Millionaire’s Row, this Virginia Historic Landmark encompassing 70 buildings is a remnant of the days when Reedville had the highest per capita income of any US town.
Conversely, the Reedville Fishermen’s Museum, partly located in the Walker House, an 1857 waterman’s home, preserves the lifestyle of that hardworking, hard living set. The museum’s Covington Building houses exhibits and collections on the Chesapeake Bay maritime history, basically the tools of the trade for crabbing, oystering and fishing. Docked outside are the Claude W. Somers, a 42-foot skipjack built in 1911, and the Elva C., a 55-foot traditional workboat built in 1922, and used for pound-net fishing and freight until the 1989 when it was donated to the museum. Visitors can also enter a 1928 pilothouse on land and see a crabbing skiff, a menhaden striker boat and a Potomac River Nancy. Future plans include a boat building facility, model workshop and boat livery. Open March-December, the hours are normally 10:30 am-4:30 pm daily, but check ahead for hours in March, April, November and December, when it may be open only on weekends. Admission is $3 for adults and free for those age 12 and under. (504 Main Street, tel. 804-453-6529, www.rfmuseum.com)
Dining
The Crazy Crab at Reedville Marina has dockside and outdoor dining, serving – what else – fresh seafood. Daily specials and steaks, too. Located at the end of Main Street. Open Tuesday-Sunday in season; weekends only in the off-season. (tel. 804-453-6789)
Another waterfront restaurant pays tribute to the town’s founder. In the mid-1990s, Elijah Reed’s great-great grandson, Taylor Slaughter, renovated the old mercantile and fish cannery into a quaint restaurant. The interior of Elijah’s Restaurant has massive exposed beams and plank walls. Above the bar are the original ledger books of the mercantile, and some cans from the cannery. One of the owners of the cannery, Blundon & Hinton, Inc., was another of Slaughter’s ancestors. Portraits of Reed and the first owners are prominently displayed. Diners get a view of Cockrell’s Creek, and in warmer weather can eat on a glassed-in porch. As of spring 2002, Slaughter was leasing the restaurant to a couple doing business as Tripp’s at the New Elijah’s. But the sign out front still bears grandpa’s name. Closed Monday and Tuesday. Open on weekends for breakfast, lunch and dinner; dinner only Wednesday-Friday. (tel. 804-453-5359 or 453-3425)
Lodging
Coach House Inn at the Gables is a sea captain’s brick mansion with an 1800s schooner mast built into it. Rooms have private baths and a water view of Cockrell’s Creek; boat slips are available. Four guest rooms have cathedral ceilings. Located at the end of Main Street. (tel. 804-453-5209, $$)
Pet-friendly: Near Reedville, Fleeton Fields is a 1945 Colonial-style brick B&B on the Chesapeake Bay in the little village of Fleeton, a former steamboat wharf. The inn has three suites with antiques, fireplaces, sitting rooms and bay views. They accept pets, no extra charge (2783 Fleeton Road, tel. 804-453-5014, 800-497-8215, www.fleetonfields.com, $$$)
Pet-friendly: The owners of Grandview Bed & Breakfast, on the Chesapeake Bay near the Tangier Island Cruises, have their own pets, so they prefer to take only friendly pets on the small side (no extra charge). Water views from every room, full breakfast, private pier. (114 Riverside Lane, tel. 804-453-3890, http://grandviewbb.freeyellow.com, $)
Information
Northumberland County Chamber of Commerce & Visitor Center, 410 Northumberland Highway, Callao, tel. 804-529-5031, www.rivnet.net/chamber.
Events
The Blessing of the Fleet marks the opening of fishing season in early May.
A Small Boat Show and Model Boat Races are part of the Fourth of July festivities.
The Oyster Roast is the second Saturday in November, and in December