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Rediscovering America_ Exploring the Small Towns of Virginia & Maryland - Bill Burnham [88]

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items, real cheap) is on Route 14 heading towards Mathews.

Dining


Our personal favorite place in Courthouse is Stillwater’s on Main, not only because the food is a wonderful mix of regional seafood specialties with an eclectic flair but also, like Cheers, they know our names when we come in. It’s our special place to go for a celebration or romantic dinner, or to bring out-of-town guests. The spacious dining room has tall ceilings, covered with punched tin, a long, old wooden bar, seating in wooden booths or around cozy tables in ladderback chairs. White linens add a touch of elegance, yet the dress is casual. It has a great wine list, and a regional beer, Mobjack Bay, on tap. The building was originally Gray’s Pharmacy, run by Dr. Gray who lived next door (the house has been razed, unfortunately). Several different restaurant incarnations have occupied the building, but after three years in business the present owners recently replaced the stained-glass window over the door that said “Capers” (two owners ago), with “Stillwater’s” in elegant script. A good sign (pun intended) that they plan on sticking around. (6553 Main Street, tel. 804-694-5618)

The working lunch crowd on Main Street craves Kelsick Gardens’ daily specials for take-out, dining in the café or outside under an umbrella table. (6604 Main Street, tel. 804-693-6500)

The Old Courthouse Restaurant is a local favorite for down-home cooking (6714 Main Street, tel. 804-693-9905). For seafood there’s Cheryl’s Shack and Raw Bar (6597 Main Street, tel. 804-694-0057) and The Blue Fin (6870 Main Street, tel. 804-693-9390). For lighter fare, Leigh and Nardozzi Caterers serve daily soup, salad and sandwich specials, along with delicious baked goods (6672 Main Street, tel. 804-693-3854), and High’s Ice Cream is the place to get a sundae, cone or sandwich (6786 Main Street, tel. 804-693-7857).

South of Courthouse on Route 17, Seawell’s Ordinary is a “pub­lick” house dating to 1757. The menu claims a tobacco burn on the floor came from a careless General Lafayette. (tel. 804-642-3635)

Farther south, near Gloucester Point, River’s Inn features elegant dining with views of the York River Yacht Haven, or casual feasting on the outdoor Crab Deck. (tel. 804-642-9942, www.riversinnrestaurant.com)

Lodging


Airville Plantation has three guest rooms with period furnishings, fireplaces, and air conditioning. There’s a pool, beach and fishing from a deepwater dock. Children over 11 welcome. Full breakfast served. (6359 T.C. Walker Road, tel. 804-694-0287, $$)

The North River Inn is a 17th-century estate on 100 acres surrounded by water on three sides. The eight guest rooms are in three historic structures, each at the end of private lanes on the water, and furnished with family antiques, private baths, air conditioning and telephones. Rent a single room or an entire house. Canoes are available for rent. Children over 12 welcome. (8777 Toddsbury Lane, tel. 877-248-3030, www.northriverinn.com, $$)

The fabulously renovated Warner Hall is a 1642 river plantation established by Augustus Warner, great-great grandfather of George Washington. There are gardens and horse pastures on the 38 acres remaining of the original plantation. Dining, for breakfast or dinner, is in the elegant dining room or the sun-filled enclosed porch with views of the Severn River. The inn has nine working fireplaces and a choice of places to curl up with a good book. The owners completed a fantastic restoration in 2001. Each of the seven guest rooms and two suites are fastidiously appointed down to every detail, with individual climate control, telephones, VCR, private baths, antiques, art and eclectic furnishings. Children ages eight and over welcome. (4750 Warner Hall Road, tel. 800-331-2720, www.warnerhall.com, $$$)

The Willows Bed and Breakfast has four guest rooms with private baths on a quiet country road. Full breakfast served. Children over 16 welcome. (8335 Robins Neck Road, tel. 804-693-7575, $$)

Pet-friendly: The new Comfort Inn on Route 17, near the Winn-Dixie shopping plaza, takes

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