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Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge is located at the end of Maddox Boulevard, and is actually on the island of Assateague. The Assateague Lighthouse is a red-and-white stripped landmark around which existed one of the island’s largest communities. The last island resident moved off in the 1930s. Admission to the refuge is $5 per vehicle, good for three days. Other passes are available. The refuge is open year-round. Summer hours are 5 am-10 pm with the visitor center open 8 am-5 pm; winter hours vary. No pets are allowed, not even in the car. (tel. 757-336-6122, http://chinco.fws.gov)

The Chincoteague Pony Centre offers daily riding lessons, pony rides and evening shows Monday-Saturday. Meet descendants of Misty and others in the stables. There’s a continuous film, exhibits and carriage on display, and a gift shop. The center is open daily, 9 am to 9 pm; Sundays, 1-9 p.m. Closed after Thanksgiving weekend until Easter. Admission to the museum is $5; pony rides are an additional $5. (6417 Carriage Drive, tel. 757-336-2776)

The Oyster & Maritime Museum is just before the entrance to the wildlife refuge. Exhibits preserve island history through the ongoing work of local artists and carvers, marine life and maritime artifacts from the oyster farming and the seafood industry. Open daily in summer, weekends in spring and fall, and closed in the winter. (7125 Maddox Blvd., tel. 757-336-6117)

The Refuge Waterfowl Museum preserves the history of everything to do with waterfowl: decoys, weapons, boats, a replica of a decoy shop, and carvings. A new 8,000-square-foot wing opened in 2002 dedicated to preserving Atlantic flyway water fowling history. Summer hours are 10 am-5 pm daily, except Wednesdays. Hours vary the rest of the year depending on demand, so give a call first. $3 adults, $1.50 children. (7059 Maddox Blvd., just before the refuge entrance, tel. 757-336-5800)

Wildlife Expeditions rents canoes and sea kayaks and takes visitors on guided sunrise, sunset and eco-tours. (tel. 757-336-6811, http://jcherrix.tripod.com)

Dining

Dining in Chincoteague means seafood eaten with a view of the water. AJ’s on the Creek has casual elegance, its own herb gardens and a view of Eel Creek. Oysters, veal and hand-cut steaks are tops on the menu. Open for lunch and dinner daily. (6585 Maddox Blvd., tel. 757-336-5888)

An old waterman’s home provides a setting for Blackboard Bistro; it’s a casual little place where seafood is prepared with imagination. Call for hours. (3837 Main Street, tel. 757-336-6187)

Etta’s Channel Side Restaurant, where crab cakes are the specialty, overlooks Assateague Channel and has views of the lighthouse. Lunch and dinner Friday-Sunday; dinner only Monday-Thursday. Closed January-March. (7452 East Side D., tel. 757-336-5644)

In the heart of downtown Chincoteague, you will find Landmark Crab House, open for dinner only, closed Mondays. (tel. 757-336-3745 or tel. 757-336-5552)

The candlelit porches of Muller’s Old Fashioned Ice Cream Parlour complete the Victorian setting of this dessert spot. Ice cream dishes come as splits, malts and sundaes. Old Dominion Draft Root Beer is served and the house specialty is Belgian waffles with ice cream, fresh fruit and whipped cream. Built in 1875, the house was later home to Captain John B. Whealton while he supervised construction of the bridge and causeway linking Chincoteague to the mainland. Open daily, 11 am-11 pm. (4034 Main Street, tel. 757-336-5894)

Seafood lovers who don’t mind making a mess head for Steamers Seafood Restaurant, where steamed entrees are served on tables decked in brown paper. Open daily for dinner. (6251 Maddox Blvd., tel. 757-336-6074)

Village Restaurant and Lounge on Eel Creek specializes in fresh oysters, steaks and veal. Open daily for dinner. (7576 Maddox Blvd., tel. 757-336-5120)

Lodging

Chincoteague has plenty of rooms with 20 motels and nearly 10 inns and B&Bs. We’ve chosen some that are on waterfront, some within walking distance of the refuge, and some just because they’re so special. For a complete listing,