Roadfood_ Revised Edition - Jane Stern [177]
Despite the fact that half of Klinger’s East is a pool hall and the bleak décor shadowed by the dining room’s dropped acoustic tile ceiling includes a sickly green rug and tables covered with matching green oilcloth, it’s a cozy place, even for out-of-towners like us. Customers include wholesome-looking families you’d never see dining in such an establishment in other parts of the country. But in Milwaukee, taverns aren’t just for drinkers; they are community centers.
The fish fry is brilliant. Of course cod is on the menu, sheathed in a crunchy coat of beer batter. You can also get smelt, which Brad informed us is properly pronounced “shmelt” hereabouts. It is a fish-lover’s fish with vivid oily character—a heap of crunch-coated two-inch sprats well-accompanied by a short stack of silver-dollar-size potato pancakes. The night we visited, the potato-slicing machine was broken so fresh-cut French fries were unavailable. Bartender Tammy Galioto apologized for their absence, but wanted to know if we agreed that the fish was fantastic. “People say it should be patented!” she exclaimed. When we asked how to ID her for this story, she pondered a moment and said, “How about ‘An East Side Sicilian Icon’?” But she didn’t kid around when we asked her to describe Klinger’s East. “You are in a neighborhood tavern,” she declared. “This is what makes the city of Milwaukee what it is.”
Leon’s
3131 S. 27th St.
414–383–1784
Milwaukee, WI
$
There is no place to eat at this neon-rimmed, Eisenhower-era hangout other than in your car or standing in the parking lot along with other happy pilgrims who have come for the ultimate frozen dessert. Leon’s menu is all custard: cones, cups, sodas, sundaes, malts, pints, and quarts. (Hot dogs are available, but they are irrelevant.)
Milwaukee is fanatical about custard, which is heavy, smooth, and pure—denser than the richest superpremium ice cream and nothing like wan frozen yogurt. As made by Leon’s, Milwaukee custard is egg-rich, sweet but not cloying, and uncomplicated. No mix-ins, no silly names for flavors, no cookie dough or brownie chunks. Choose vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, or butter pecan. Have it in a cone or cup. Or have a sundae topped with sauce of your choice and some of the most delicious toasted nuts on the planet: pecan halves that have a wicked crunch, a salty punch, and an earthy flavor that only helps accentuate the heavenly clarity of the superior custard itself.
Mazo’s
3146 S. 27th St.
414–671–2118
Milwaukee, WI
BLD Tues–Sat | $
One of Milwaukee’s lesser-known culinary attractions is its hamburgers. Some connoisseurs believe Mazo’s serves the best. It is a tiny place now run by Nick Mazo, whose grandparents started it in 1934, and if you come at lunchtime, prepare to wait a while once you find a precious seat in the dining room. These burgers are not fast food, but they are worth the wait.
They are not spectacular; they are very normal patties of good ground beef that are grilled in butter—the Milwaukee way!—and served in lovely toasted buns. Available toppings include fried onions, sautéed mushrooms, and, of course, a layer of cheese. Other choices for dressing up the burger are bacon, lettuce, and tomato as well as Thousand Island dressing. On the side, have coleslaw, French fries, or baked beans.
Bonus: Mazo’s is directly across the street from the excellent Leon’s custard stand (Wisconsin).
McBob’s
4919 W. North Ave.
414–871–5050
Milwaukee, WI
LD | $$
Roadfood.com users Jessica Zierten and Brad Warsh said we needed to come to McBob’s a few years ago when we were in their home city of Milwaukee looking for excellent fish fries. Thumbs-up to that! Every Friday, McBob’s offers three choices—perch, walleye, or grouper—or you can have a combo of perch and walleye, or a super combo of all three. With the fish come American fries or potato pancakes, coleslaw, and bread.