Roadfood_ Revised Edition - Jane Stern [4]
Beyond hot dogs and hamburgers, Doogie’s makes a heck of a good Philly cheesesteak as well as all sorts of other sandwiches, New England–style clam chowder, a hot lobster roll, and that junkiest of junk foods, so beloved hereabouts—fried dough. Doogie’s fried dough, a plate-size disc of deep-fried dough, is available veiled in cinnamon sugar or under a blanket of red tomato sauce. Either way, it is a mouthful!
Dottie’s Diner @ Phillips
740 S. Main St. (Route 6)
203–263–2516
Woodbury, CT
BL | $$
We were sad to hear in 2006 that the Phillips family was getting out of the restaurant business. Phillips Diner, along Antiques Row in Woodbury, had been hunger’s destination for decades, its donuts and chicken pies without peer. We miss Bud and his daughters and in-laws and the late Mrs. Phillips and the kibitzing they encouraged around the counter, especially early in the morning.
But for donut lovers and chicken pie lovers, the news is good. New owner Dotty Sperry is on the beam. “I knew I had to keep the best of the old place,” she told us, “but I wanted to add my personality, too.” The chicken pie is an example. Traditional farmhouse chicken pie is still available, and still made by the Phillips family: a savory crust, top and bottom, loaded with warm, moist chicken meat. Dottie’s own version, which includes gravy, peas, and carrots, is an option for $1 more. The gravy has changed from the old-style white cream to a darker, spicier sauce. The mashed potatoes are the genuine article; they and cranberry sauce have been supplemented on the plate with a sprig of al dente broccoli and a few thin, buttery slices of cooked squash.
As for the donuts, they remain excellent; on some occasions, better than ever. Cinnamon donuts are creamy inside with a crunchy exterior; chocolate donuts come loaded with vast amounts of the glossy dark glaze that so perfectly complements the cake within.
Dottie has spiffed things up with retro aqua upholstery in the booths and a new counter, but the community feeling essential to the soul of a diner still can be felt. During a recent visit, we had a hard time sidelining Dottie to have a chat with, she was so busy schmoozing with her customers.
Dr. Mike’s
158 Greenwood Ave.
203–792–4388
Bethel, CT
LD | $
Forget psychotherapy and medication! The best antidepressant we know is a visit to the good Dr. Mike of Bethel. The cones and cardboard cups dished out year-round by this little shop are a miracle cure. As hopeless ice cream addicts, we must tell you that there is nothing quite like Dr. Mike’s, and there are occasions when its ultrarichness is actually too, too much. If you like lots and lots of ice cream, this is the wrong stuff. A single scoop can be overwhelming.
The longtime standard-bearer, Rich Chocolate, for example, is stunningly flavored, cocoa brown, and more deliriously chocolaty than a pure melted Hershey’s bar, but with the added luxury of all that high-butterfat cream. Chocolate Lace and Cream is another Dr. Mike’s invention, made with a chocolate-covered hard candy produced by a local confectionery. The candy is broken into bite-size pieces and suspended in a pure white emulsion of sweetened cream: another dreamy experience, but in this case our warning is to get it in a cup. The crunch of the candy conflicts with the crunch of a cone.
We’ve named our two favorite flavors. Don’t hesitate, though, if you find your personal favorite among the approximately six varieties available on any particular day. Each one is made the old-fashioned way, using cream from dairy buckets, in five-gallon batches, and we have fond memories of Dr. Mike’s coffee, coconut, cinnamon, Heath Bar crunch, even prune, dazzling vanilla, and some real tongue-stunners made with fresh fruits in the summer.
After you have tasted the ice cream in its unadulterated state, please return to Dr. Mike