Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [123]
Until the turn of the century, Phu Quoc had almost no facilities for tourists, but now development is in full swing and visitors are spoiled for choice of accommodation, restaurants and activities, such as snorkelling and diving. There are a few corals just off Ong Lang Beach, but the best locations are around the An Thoi Islands to the south or Turtle Island off the northwest coast, both of which can be visited by boat trip from Phu Quoc. At these reefs – the former of which is rated by some as the best dive site in Vietnam – you can float above brain and fan corals, watching parrot fish, scorpion fish, butterfly fish, huge sea urchins and a host of other marine life.
Like Mui Ne, Phu Quoc is a favourite bolt-hole for expats living in Ho Chi Minh City and, with work already begun on an international airport in the centre of the island, its future looks rosy. Yet while resorts and bars are springing up fast, for the moment Phu Quoc retains a pioneer outpost feel. Many places can only be reached via dirt tracks and the beaches are largely free of vendors. In the rainy season (May–Oct) Phu Quoc is relatively quiet, and room rates become more easily negotiable, though in peak season (Dec–Jan), accommodation prices can increase sharply and advance booking is necessary.
The Mekong Delta | Phu Quoc Island |
Arrival
Whether you arrive by air or by sea, you will be besieged by touts trying to drag you off to their favoured hotel or guesthouse, so it’s a good idea to have somewhere in mind before arrival. If you have made a prior booking, you will be met and will save yourself a lot of hassle and expense.
Flights from Ho Chi Minh City (several daily; 1hr) land at Phu Quoc Airport, on the edge of Duong Dong town, from where it is a short trip to the resorts on Long Beach, or a seven-kilometre ride to those at Ong Lang Beach.
Speedboats from Rach Gia (several daily; 2hr 30min) dock at Vong Beach, while those from Ha Tien (1 daily; 1hr 30min) dock at Ham Ninh, a little further north. There is currently no organized bus service so you’ll have to take a taxi or xe om to your chosen resort. Be prepared for some hard bargaining, as some drivers take new arrivals to the cleaners. From both ports, a taxi to Long Beach should cost no more than 100,000đ and around 200,000đ to Ong Lang Beach, while a xe om should be about half these prices.
The Mekong Delta | Phu Quoc Island |
Information, tours and trips
The Vietcombank at 20, 30 Thang 4 in Duong Dong will exchange money and cash traveller’s cheques; it also has an ATM. The post office (6.30am–9pm) is also on 30 Thang 4, where internet access is available. There is a hospital towards the eastern end of 30 Thang 4, and there are pharmacies along Ngo Quyen beside the market.
Most resorts and guesthouses can provide local information and rent motorbikes (around $7–10 a day, with discounts for longer rentals). Check the bike over carefully, as many of these machines are falling apart, and if you’re not happy with what they offer, try PhuQuocSun, 42 Tran Hung Dao, 077/399 4266), who also rent out bicycles and jeeps, with a free delivery and pick-up service. Most resorts and guest houses can also arrange boat tours, including visits to the local pearl farm on Long Beach (Bai Truong) or an evening’s cuttlefish fishing, using coloured plastic shrimps as bait.
Most resorts can sort out snorkelling trips to the offshore islands (see "Information, tours and trips"), charging around $20 per person (depending on number in