Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [141]
Sited around 200km north of Da Lat and the same distance south of Plei Ku, Buon Ma Thuot is both administrative centre to Dak Lak Province, and the western highlands’ unofficial capital. During French colonial times, the town developed on the back of the coffee, tea, rubber and hardwood crops that grew in its fertile red soil, and was the focal point for the plantations that smothered the surrounding countryside: plantation-owners and other colons would amuse themselves by picking off the elephants, leopards and tigers once prevalent in the area. In later years Americans superseded the French, but they were long gone by the time the North Vietnamese Army (NVA) swept through in March 1975, making Buon Ma Thuot the first “domino” to fall in the Ho Chi Minh Campaign. More recently, natural resources and coffee in particular have made the town a comparatively affluent community, as evidenced by the number of building projects and flash cars that buzz around its streets.
The central highlands | Through the highlands | Buon Ma Thuot and around |
Arrival and information
Buon Ma Thuot’s bus station (0500/387 6833) is 3km above town on Nguyen Tat Thanh; several air-conditioned express buses arrive daily from Nha Trang ($6–7) and from Ho Chi Minh City ($10–12). A private bus company, Rang Dong (0500/395 6956) offers hotel pick-up for rides to Ho Chi Minh City for 150,000đ. The airport is a few kilometres back off the road towards Da Lat, while Vietnam Airlines (0500/395 4442) is at 67 Nguyen Tat Thanh; a taxi into town costs around $7.
Dak Lak Tourist (0500/385 2108, www.daklaktourist.com.vn), temporarily based at 51 Ly Thuong Kiet, is very helpful and can arrange car rental, guides, visa extensions and tours. Dam San Tourist (0500/385 0123, damsantour@dng.vnn.vn), a small, private tour operator based at the Dam San Hotel(see "Accommodation") is also good for local exploration, and rents out motorbikes at around $7 a day. Vietcombank, 6 Tran Hung Dao, changes traveller’s cheques and foreign currency and has an ATM – there are several more around the town centre. The post office (daily 7am–8.30pm) is on Le Duan just south of Victory Monument, and also has internet access, or try the cheap internet shop at 36 Ly Thuong Kiet.
The central highlands | Through the highlands | Buon Ma Thuot and around |
Accommodation
There are plenty of places to stay in Buon Ma Thuot, catering for most budgets, though few of them have much character. Most of the cheaper places are clustered along Ly Thuong Kiet, while mid-range hotels are scattered around town.
Dam San Hotel 212–214 Nguyen Cong Tru 0500/385 1234, damsanhotel@dng.vnn.vn. The best place to stay in town, though it is about a kilometre from the centre. Its smart rooms are furnished with tasteful local textiles and most have lovely views across a lush hillside. There’s also a pool and tennis courts. US$31–50
Biet Dien 1 Ngo Quyen 0500/395 4299bietdienhotel@vnn.vn. A newish, five-storey block just northeast of the town centre with big, bright rooms that have desks and free wi-fi. US$11–50
Hoang Long 168 Hung Vuong 0500/384 1841www.hoanglonghotel.vn. A nondescript building to the east of the centre, with some of the best-value rooms in town. US$11–20
Tay Nguyen 110 Ly Thuong Kiet 0500/385 1009, 0500/385 2250. Located near the town centre, this place has a range of ageing but functional rooms. US$11–30
White Horse 7–13 Nguyen Duc Canh 0500/381 5656, 0500/381 5588. Tucked away in a backstreet to the north of town, this smart place offers the best mid-range value in the town centre.